I have a small kink in my track that I did not discover until I ran a larger locomotive. Is there any way to fix it without taking up the track. It is where two sections of track meet on a curve. Looking for suggestions. Thanks
Hi … Is it flex track or sectional track?
Cut the offending rail, and things may go back into place.
ROAR
Depending on the curves you’re dealing with, if you are generally at the minimums there, say a tight 18", it may be best to lift the tracks for about 18" on either side, wetting ballast if it’s there, and re-laying the tracks to try to keep the radius as consistent as you can.
If you are not in a ‘minimums’ situation, and can afford to alter the geometry a bit to fix the kink without really mucking up everything, then release the rails for six to eight inches on either side of the kink so that you can move them and then you have two choices:
a. tighten the curve there to make the joint align better; or
b. use a cut-off disk on a dremel and with the side of the spinning disk, kiss the longest end a couple of times to reduce its length by about 1/16th of an inch, maybe 3/32".
Make sure you have a solid grip on that rail!! You don’t want it lifted and torn away from the spikehead details.
Slide the rail joiner back and cut off a very small sliver of rail with a Zuron tool of abrasive cut-off wheel and check to see if that removes the kink. Do the same for the other rail, if needed. By removing small slivers at a time, you should be able to fix. If the track has been ballasted, your going to have to remove the ballast in that area so the trck can conform to a new un-kinked and fair curve.
I am not sure I understand your dilema, however it sounds to me like maybe you could take a small file and file the KINK out?
Or is it major kink that filing would not leave much rail left?
[8-|]
If the kink is at the joint of two pieces of flex and track is nailed in place then here is what I would try.
Wet the ballast and remove any track nails close to the joint. If track connectors are soldered then heat them so they will move. Push the track into alinement and hold in place, trim rails, as described by others if too long (this is where a Dremel is really handy). Solder the track connectors. Nail track back in place. Let ballast dry.
If track is glued in place then ballast would need to be removed so you can slice under the track to break glue bond so the track can be moved. Then try to put fresh glue / caulk etc under the track before starting repairs.
Good luck.
Martin.
Depends on the type of kink (we need more specifics) and your construction methods. I had one on an outside rail an was able to add some solder and filed it till it was right. It still looks kinked but the running surface is not, bugs the heck out of one of my train friends!