I have decided to paint my track i have some nice brown paint how do i go about this?
Hi!
I used several small spray cans of MR paint. RR brown, roof brown, grimey black. Just mask aything that might get “overspray” (Use a piece of cardboard or some other flexible stuff to hold behind the track to prevent overspray.)
Wear a mask if you can. Ventilation is GOOD.
I only painted the sides of the track that can be seen from a normal viewing angle (mostly).
Then you can touch up and highlight with grime and rust.
Some folks wipe oil on the top of the rail to make it easy to clean after painting.
Go easy around turnouts! And them move them right after painting to keep them from gooing up.
It was pretty easy, went pretty fast and sure makes the MRR look a lot better.
Have fun,
I mask off the ties and paint the rails with Rusty Metal Primer spray, available from Wal-Mart. After it dries, I lightly sand the top and inside top edge of the rails with 800 grit sandpaper to remove the paint from those areas.
Well essentially all of the above are great methods, its a case of personal preference. Wiping the tops of the rail with oil to prevent paint sticking…masking off the ties to prevent the rust colour hitting them… masking off the rails to prevent the ties colour frome getting there… and all the other GREAT and personal methods are just too laborious, involved and finicky for ME…
1 : I grab a bottle of 49c burnt umber from WalMart, a CHEAP 1" brush from the dollar store (usually sold in packs of three various sizes, use the big size for the blue/white backdrop base coat). Tools in hand slap the paint on, ties, rails, roadbed and anything else too close to be carefull about [:D] … viola instant good creosoted tie colour.
2: bottle of testors rust , cheap round small brush… paint the sides of the rails that are visible, dont waste time with the back if no-one is going to see them.
Note: Dont get anal about keeping it off the ties next to the rail, in the real world rust runs in the rain and discolours connecting objects. (check out some proto pics)
3: Let dry for a day
4: Grab one of those ‘spare’ ties from when you last cut some flex track and scrape the end of it along the railhead, (this takes seconds to do, cleans without scratching and is a heck of a lot quicker/easier than painting ‘Wahls Clipper Oil’ on the rail head to prevent a paint that wont stick to bare unprimed metal in the first place from getting there) failing the availability of a 'spare tie use your finger nail, same effect , you just get a groove in your finger nail instead of an old tie.
Track now looks a whole lot better with VERY LITTLE effort and time.
Oh and there is another none essential step but very effective that I have started doing, however the microwave dinged, dinner is ready and I will add it later when I have both fingers available to type with [:)]
Karl.
I use spray cans of Krylon camoflage color paints – browns and olive drabs and a red primer – alernate the sprays with a can in each hand BUT I do this outside when it is not too windy. I apply a light oil to the tops of the rail first, and I wipe the paint off the tops of the rail using a anit-graffiti wipe that I got at the hardware store – a solvent impregnated paper wipe
The curve track has to be curved first – if you paint it straight and then bend it little shiny dots appear. Atlas flex track is too whippy to hold its curved shape without help.
Two other methods. Testors/Floquil makes a new line of weathering paint sticks and one pack of three shades is rail weathering colors. You just run the paint stick on the sides of the rail
Next method is Micro Engineering makes pre weathered flex track. If you do not want to do that, they also sell their patina chemical so you can patina your own track. Best of all this conducts electricity. It takes several applications to get the metal dark
Dave Nelson
I would recommend using a q-tip with basic oil of any type (I use wesson) to coat the top of the rails and contact points… After the paint dries, just wipe off with a damp rag/paper towel. Works like a charm and less bright boy/sanding. Just a quick tip…
Brian
First, mask the hinges, tips of the point rails (the movable rails on the turnout) and the place on the stock rails (the non-movable rails on the turnout) with tape, or something. Also, somehow mask off anything on the track that you don’t want to get paint on-i.e. bridges.
Then, spray on the paint with either an airbrush or spray cans, or paint it with a brush.
Then, after you’re done wipe the paint off all the railheads with a track cleaning eraser or something, and remove the tape or whatever from the parts you masked off, or just wipe the paint off of the railtops etc, as you go along (if you’re using acrylic paint, it dries fast though). Some modelers put a thin coat of oil on the railheads, etc. to make wiping the paint off easier. If you do this, only use a THIN coat of oil-if you can see it, you’re using too much. Also, if you use an airbrush, be sure and use a respirator, not one of those disposible dust masks from Home Depot, Lowes, etc. or paint it outside if you can. If you paint it before it’s laid, that’s an option and you won’t have to worry about getting paint on bridges, etc.
I use a round brush and paint the rails and ties the same color. I paint about a foot of rail, then wipe the railhead off before the paint dries.
Nick
I mask everything that I can think of (especially turnout points) before painting, then grab some spray cans of boxcar red, roof brown and grimy black and go nuts. Then go over the rail-tops with a Brite Boy. I don’t worry too much about the ties and I only paint the side of the rail that will be seen from the normal viewing of the layout. Works for me. At least it used to, but now I’ve got a lung condition, so any further rail-painting will have to be done with a brush. But I think I’ve got all the track laid that I’ll ever need (yah, sure, LOL!).
Tom