Ideas on filing a circular plastic "nut"

Hi. Strange problem. I have two Bachmann 50’ boxcars- which needed new couplers. I found the Kadee plastic 0.050" thick shank ones fit well- with a small amount of filing the shank. These couplers come with a formed piece of copper which functions as the centering spring, the plastic coupler does not have whiskers.

The formed piece of copper has a square base which fits in the coupler pocket with a small hole in the center, the center plastic nut in the coupler pocket goes thru this hole. The problem is for 1 out of 4 pockets (two cars), the plastic nut is too big, and the copper piece dies not fit over it. I know it’s not the copper piece because the same piece fit in other pockets.

How can I trim the outside diameter of thus nut? I can’t use the #148 with whiskers because they are too thick at 0.056" shank, I already tried filing them down but could not get to the thickness needed.

Thanks,

Neeraj.

It’s much easier to enlarge the opening in the spring plate than it is to reduce the size of the coupler mounting post. Use a round needle file, and work slowly, twirling it clockwise in the hole until it grabs, then reverse the rotation, repeating several times until it will slip into place.

Wayne

For a few dollars, you can get a whole bunch of “draft gear boxes” from Kadee. These replace the coupler pockets molded into the car base, and come with matching cover plates. You can remove the old pockets with a razor saw, Dremel tool or even a hobby knife, and then either glue on the new pocket or drill-and-tap for a 2-56 screw. Micro-fasteners has the screws for the most reasonable price.

If you’re going to be replacing couplers on older cars which are not always Kadee-compatible, these boxes are the best way to mount them when you have a mismatch.

This is the way I do my coupler boxes where the post is large. To me it is the easiest solution. Just work slowly and carefully.

Thanks, i will need to procure a new file … Close inspection suggests iffyness on being able to cut the pocket out.

I would give some thought to using Kadee #148 couplers. This eliminates the need for the centering spring, altogether.

#148 is a shank thickness of 0.056" which is too thick for the pocket

Mr Beasly,

So once again I tried your solution. I did not haver time to get a new file but Dremel was handy. Was easier than I expected to cut out the original pocket. The #28 (?) plastic pair came with pockets and long screws so I thought ok, I am set!

Alas, the screw they provided is too small for the post in their coupler pocket! I don’t know what the purpose if that screw (actually a small 1" long bolt I should say) isif it is not to fasten the cover plate to remounting pocket!

Thought?

NP

The screw is generally used to affix the draught gear box to the car’s underframe and will hold the the lid in place on the box. I prefer to cement the lid in place using solvent cement, using the screw only to attach the assembly to the car. Most Kadee couplers use a 2-56 screw for this purpose, so you’ll need to drill a #50 hole in the underbody. The screw will cut its own threads into plastic, but you’ll need a suitable tap if the car’s underbody is metal.
If drilling into plastic, it’s preferable to use a pin vise to avoid too much heat build-up, which can result in deformation of the plastic.

While the round file would have been easiest, this is the way most of us begin to accumulate the assortment of tools necessary to perform these little tasks. I have a fairly well-equipped workshop with tools amassed in this manner. [swg]

Wayne

thanks Wayne, cementing is the route I plan to take. After all this is a 10+ year old Bachmann car that cost me $5 at the time … at the most I will mess up coupler height a little.

Ditto about tools! Since planning to build my railroad, I have indeed amassed an impressive collection. Dremels,Hammer Drills, Chisels … all work wonders when the Mrs wants to get an un-aligned door to fit “upstairs” …