Most auto start systems don’t run on a timer…they have sensors in the main air reservoir, engine block water jacket and in the battery system…one reads the air pressure and will start the locomotive if the pressure drops 5 psi…the others read the water jacket temp and battery charge level…if either drops below the minimum requirements or settings, the auto start will start the engine, run it till the air pumps up, engine warms up or the batteries are charged,(or all three) then shut the engine down.
Locomotives with bad batteries are usually tagged “Do not shut down” to prevent them from being shut off and then not restarting.
Yes, you can jump start a locomotive from another locomotive, and there are jump start trucks…but it is expensive, time consuming, and the train crew cant do it…this falls into the realm of crossing craft lines, only the shop forces can jump start the engines.
If they were older locomotives, SD40s and such, it is less costly to leave them idling than risk them being shut off and not restarting out side of a yard environment.
As for “locking the brakes” no, but you are required to tie “sufficient hand brakes to prevent uncontrolled movement”…on my railroad that is translated into one railcar hand brake for every ten cars in your consist, plus each locomotives hand brake applied.
The engineer is required to do a full service train line reduction, apply the independent brake, remove the reverser and isolate each locomotive, leave headlights on dim, and turn off the ditch lights.
All of our locomotives, MK1500Ds, have auto-start/auto shut down…you can disable the auto-shut down with a breaker, if you need to leave the locomotive running.
It does have a timer, but not to start it up, instead it is to shut it down…if no control surface is moved, throttle, independent or train brake and such, ten minutes after the last control surface movement, if all conditions are within specs, air, ba