The only one commenting on trolls in this thread is you.
If I didn’t know any better I’d say you miss those trolls [:)]
Hi,
Just got back from a LHS and got to play with their Prodigy unit that runs a sizeable store layout. I liked the display and the rotary throttle, but was not thrilled with the handheld unit as it seemed awkward (not a showstopper however).
After hearing my “requirements”, he seemed to think the NCE was my best bet. The store handles NCE, Digitrax and Prodigy. Anyway, I picked up Kalmbach’s “DCC Made Easy” book and will use that to get more educated on the subject.
As someone once said on tv… “I’m soooo confused…”
Thanks,
Mobilman44
I’ve used the prodigy throttle before and do find it awkward. The problem is they put the potentiometer down the bottom, so it takes two hands to run the engine and blow the whistle. It also feels cheap.
When I was deciding on a system, I rulled out the Prodigy systems pretty quickly because they do not have a computer interface. If you do not want a computer interface, the Prodigy Advance looks like a pretty good system, and I have herd good reviews for their wireless option.
I almost did as you thought and at the last minute I decieded to read the one at the library first.
I’m very happy I did - after I was done reading the copy at the library, I felt that I realy didn’t know much more than I did before I read the book - almost as if it was designed to give a taste of DCC, but, not enough to realy make a good choice and make the reader feel the need to obtaine another book about DCC for more info.
The problem I think you’ll find with any book is that it will be outdated before it is even complete. The foundation stays the same, but the implementations change almost daily. And the implementation is what differentiates the systems. Which leaves wod of mouth, forums, and reviews as the main unbiased sources of information. The other place I utilize to learn about the different systems is the manuals for each system, which are usually available on the manufacturers’ web sites. It is not unbiased information, but I find that it helps my understanding about each system, as well as DCC in general. I also look at the NMRA specs now and then, but I have to admit to being a it of a geek…
Greg,
I think you missed the point of Lionel’s book. It’s meant as a elementary explanation and primer of how DCC works in very understandable terms - particularly for those who don’t have a background in electronics and/or would struggle with manuals that are “heavy” on terminology.
I can’t tell you how many books I’ve read where the author begins simply enough…then all of a sudden shifts into third and leaves you in a cloud of dust because he or she “assumes” too much from the reader. I actually found “DCC Made Easy” refreshing. I wish authors did a better job of filling the reader in on basic ideas and concepts before expounding on them.
Tom
mobilman44:
My own DCC experience is with the AtlasMaster and MRC Prodigy Advance systems. Both work as well as advertised. After considering a purchase of the Digitrax Super Empire Builder to upgrade from the AtlasMaster system (which my son still uses to operate his Lego trains), I found that the Prodigy Advance system promised almost all of the same features but at a price that would allow me to by the entire system plus a second Prodigy Advance handheld for the same price as the Digitrax SEB starter system less a power supply.
As far as operating the system, the Prodigy Advance could hardly be more simple. Should you want to select a locomotive, press the “LOCO” button, enter the desired address, the press the “ENTER” button. You are now in control of the desired locomotive. Need to program a four digit address? Press the “PROG” button once to program on a separate program track, twice to program on the main line. Enter the number of the locomotive you wish to reprogram and press “ENTER”. Now enter the new address (2, 3, or 4 digits) and press the “ENTER” button. Your loco now has a new address, even on the main without reprogramming any other locos on the main. The system manual is very brief compared to other systems and the major instructions are printed right in the back of the handheld. You don’t need to be computer literate to operate this system. My kids find the system fun and easy, too!
While I can’t comment on other systems, I have found the MRC Prodigy Advance system to be everything I need.
Hornblower
Good Morning!
Thank you all for your comments and opinions - and believe me, I value them all.
The book “DCC made Easy” was a major help to me, giving me some much needed basic knowledge. The fellow at the LHS told me it was out of date, but for my purpose it was just fine. In short, I find the basic premise of DCC easy to understand, but for a layout of size with reverse loops, etc. it can be much more complicated.
My existing DC layout is progressing, with only about 20 ft2 scenery to finish, including roads and people and some additional structures. I am going to “complete” it, and enjoy it until I decide to rebuild - which may be within 12 months or so. The rebuild will either be DCC operated, or wired for DCC but hooked up as DC. Goodness, in 12 months there may be many changes out there to make the decision easier.
Again, thank you all!!!
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
Perhaps I did misunderstand the book.
I did think that it would expand on the basics as presented in the basic wireing book, but, to me, all it did was take what was in one chapter and streach it out to fill a book.
I honistly thought that it would give enough info to help me decied between the different systems - and in that regard I felt it left me more confused than ever.
Mobilman44, I am a idiot and I figured out the wring. My bench had tow main lines one powred by a MRC 9500 and other one by a MRC 2400. Had plactic joiner’s where the two line hooked to each other at the cross overs. Each line had it own power blocks for the feeders. All I did was hook wires to the blocks to my power booster and off they went! I do not have any reversing loops, more than likely you do. Mrc and other companys make auto reversers that will change the polatry on it own. Think the MRC is around $34.00 or so.
If you like to go sound for under $150.00 try the Blue Line by BLI. I have a GE AC 6000 UP and it sounds great! I got mine from K-10 Trains for $120.00 and a Digitrax DN143IP decoder for $27.95. $147.95 for a sound engine is not bad.
Before it is pointed out it’s a N-Scale deoder I know that. It was one of 4 BLI had listed for the engine. Tight fit where the decoder goes.
Cuda Ken