Well I’m putting together my very first layout. Ive got my ebnchwork built, im just ironing out some final details. Now at some poitn I think I’d liek to upgrade to DCC. What should I be doign as I’m assembling to make that transistion as smooth as possible? I’m not entirely sure how DCC works in specific so any help would be appreciated. Do only the tortoise style switch machines work with DCC? What woudl you all suggest i use for switch machine. I havent bought any yet.
The answer to the first part of your question depends on how much track and how much power you will need to run what you intend to run on that track. First, if we are talking a 4X8, or something a bit bigger, a Digitrax, MRC, NCE, or whatever beginner system (expandable) would be lots…unless you intend to cram and run about eight sound-equipped locomotives on it at once. You may need a more powerful system or one more booster for that.
To wire your layout, divide it into at least two sensible districts that have the rails gapped from each other. The gap should be no wider than about 1/16", and you would probably want to put a styrene plug in the gap to ensure that the rail ends don’t inadvertently touch during humid or very hot conditions. Look in the forum today and search for a thread that is asking about insulating gaps…its tells you the best ways to deal with them.
Each of these districts should be fed by one set of feeders of about 18-22 gauge wire. If the districts have more than 10 linear feet of track, you would be better off with two sets of feeders per section/district, or a set of feeders every two to three 3’ sections of flextrack. So, try to feed every 6-8 feet of track as a maximum length to keep voltage to the sections high.
Each of these sets of feeders goes to a sub-bus that has a single 12 volt auto taillamp (#1156) wired in series to one wire. The light will act as a short protector and indicator to tell you which part of the layout has the problem (It works, as I found out. Credit to Joe Fugate for this tip).
The two sub-bus wires that provide the power to the sets of feeders, the wires that actuall meet the rails, are themselves fed from the main bus. The main bus should be in the range of 14 gauge, 12 if you are timid, and should have its ends get power directly from the booster or controller device. The bus is merely two wires of heavier gauge that parallel the main line of your track, certainly any big loop, and the sub-b
Tony’s train exchange direct link to the DCC intro page.
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/intro/index.htm
A very good read.
Ken.
To add to Selector’s excellent write-up, remember to watch out for “reverse loops.” These are track paths where the train can end up going back the way it came, but facing the other way. Reverse loops need to be “gapped” or insulated (same thing) in DCC just like in DC. The good news with DCC is that you can buy a small circuit board to automatically handle the reversing, but you still have to insulate the track.
One other thing I’d add since it’s your very first layout is for you to consider whether you’re interested in the electronics aspects of adding decoders to locomotives. Depending on your interest level and skill level you may or may not find that fun. If your want to go the “easy” way (like me) you may want to buy DCC equipped locomotives. Next level is DCC Ready locomotives which means you’ll also need to buy a decoder and install it (theoretically just plug it in under the hood – but really may also require other modifications). Most “complex” level is older non-DCC-ready locos… they can usually have decoders installed, but require more effort. In any event, think toward DCC as you buy locomotives.
To address your other question: Yes, Tortoise is an excellent choice for lots of reasons (many topics on this forum about them) DCC or not. I wish I had gone all Tortoise when I started out (and am slowly converting). By the way, many DCC users do not control their turnouts using DCC, but operate them manually or use “old-fashioned” remote control with toggle switches or push buttons. I like limiting my DCC throttle to locomotives only.
To control your switch machines using DCC the Digitrix DT400 or the DT400R throtle is very easy to use. The Tortoise machines are about the best and easiest to install.
You don’t have to use DCC track power for the switch machines, use another Power source for that. But hook the machine’s decoder to the loconet system to get control from the TD400s. Read up on DCC at Tony’s train exchange then I suggest you buy “The Digitrax Big Book of DCC” it’s a must have book for DCC users.
You can control just about any type of switch machine with DCC, but the Tortoises are generally the easiest and cheapest. The drive circuitry is cheaper since it’s very low power, compared to what is needed for a twin-cil switch machine, and this partly make sup for the greater cost of the Tortoise itself. The slow motion, low power, and continuous holdign pressure ont he points makes the Tortoise superior to all. Expensive, but worth it. I’ve NEVER seen one go bad, EVER, not on my layout or at the club I used to belong to.
–Randy