I am building my first garden railroad. I have G scale stuff (Aristo U25-B and some cars) inherited from my dad. I don’t have the track, nor the power supply yet. I am going to install about 150 feet of track with a long steady incline from the ground level up to about 4 feet off the ground and then at the opposite end, have it circle decend back to ground level. I am also going to build a waterfall/fountain system.
So… any advice to a newbee? What brand of track, switches, etc.?
If you could do it all over again, what would you do the same? Different?
I’ll take any and all observations, opinions, advice, etc.
Hi Jake[#welcome] I use LGB brass track ive had no problems with it I would recomend R3 curves and turnouts with electric switching. My layout is controlled by the train engineer (AristoCrest) all my accessoies are by this company no probs with any of their products. Hope this helps
I’m going to do it all over again. After 24 years with he same layout, it’s time to rebuild as soon as the frost is out of the ground. When I started I used 2x6 ceder for the road bed, Aristo 3 foot straight track and LGB 4 foot radius curves, that’s all that was available at the time. I had very little to no problems with the old layout. I ran track power for about 18 of the years, then I converted to battery. I used a lot of conductive grease in the joints. The new layout is going to have 10 foot radius curves, on ladder roadbed. I using USA trains #6 switches on the mainline and LGB 1600 switches in the yards.
Instad of digging down for the pond, I would build up for the pond and GRR. Then I could have much more bridge work getting down to ground level for the run through the rose beds.
I DID do it all over again[;)], and made several changes, a larger loop that over and under, a different approach to yards and sidings, and a more scenic master plan.
Jake – I’m still building on my first railway, but if I could start over I’d utilize much bigger curves with 8’ radius at a minimum and 10’+ radius as a standard.[:P] I’d also reduce the grades to 2 or 3% max… I’ve got one area that the grade is 4.5 to 5% which really reduces the length of trains.[B)]
I’d make the track plan a lot simpler to start with and branch off with more complex expansions after getting the trains up and running. Waiting damn near a year to run trains is no way to stay focused on the build, and needless to say it doesn’t get the grandkids involved.
I’d also get better quality engines and not spend the money on the starter sets…I’ve not been very happy with the issues I’ve run into with mine.
Other n’at I wouldn’t change much…other than …well maybe go DCC to begin with[:P]
We’re moving in a couple weeks so I’ll also get a chance to start over again. This time ALL of the track will be elevated. Layout will be built on modular platforms or “tables” (much, much easier to disassemble when it’s time to move again … there’s a 99% chance that the new owner will not want any hint of a garden RR in the backyard, he’ll want to see a lawn). Main line minimum radius at least 6ft. (that’s radius, not diameter). #6 turnouts on the mainline. RC/battery power. Trackplan designed to allow the trains to just run unattended as opposed to an operations based design (I’ve found that I prefer to just watch the trains run through the scenery than to play engineer/brakeman). And finally, I’d stress doing everything (locos, rolling stock, right-of-way, structures, etc) with quality rather than quantity and size in mind.
I am doing it all over again, the fourth, scratch that, the Fifth time, for that matter, in “G” gauge, once in Florida originally, in 95, than in Ohio 96 thru 98, again in Florida 98 thru 04, again after the hurricanes of 04 thru 06, and now for the fifth time 07 to the present.
I for one have chosen to use all Stainless Steel track, this time, as I use track power, a necessary “EVIL” some might say. However I don’t think there is a feasable way of doing battery power for the equipment consists that I choose to run.
And I hated the constant cleaning of Br-Ass…track…
I have also chosen to do a semi-raised/modular layout. Because I have a bad back, and don’t like to bend down constantly, and I live in a rental mobile park. All ponds are pretty much built up also, except for the initial drain back/sump pond, 4.5 feet down, 300 gallons.
I plan to power all mainline #6 switches with under mounted Tortise type switch machines, I use only #6’s on the main line. And all wide radius 10 ft diameter switches in the run through, ladder track designed yards, in the 11 by 35 foot train storage room. I got tired of removing trains from the tracks all the time on the former layouts when ever the whether turned bad, and at night…All housed 10 Ft switches in the two ladder storage yards use LGB switch machines.
I know there are those who have their own personal opinions and will readily voice them. But I have for the time, chosen to use the Kietco, Loco-Linc RC system, in-conjunction with MTH’s DCS system. Kiethcos system allows for RC control of t
I originally built my small garden railroad 16" above grade. Over the past 15 years it has subsided to some 9" above grade. Now that I’m a senior citizen, I dearly wish that I had been able to build it some 24" above grade. It isn’t fun leaning over or kneeling, to get the trains on the track, and sitting on the ground to watch them isn’t as easy as it was years ago. Moral: plan ahead for old age!!
I modeled On30 before switching to large scale. Ever since I built a few structures and rolling stock in large scale, I found it very difficult and frustrating to go back to working in On30 due to the size differential. Large scale spoiled me so that I can’t to go back to anything smaller. It’s too bad because I think On30 is neat.
Track: I vote Stainless Steel with split jaw clamps at all connections and use feeders to ensure you don’t have voltage drop issues. Go with the largest diameter curves you can get away with. Brand, you can get 332 code SS from Aristo and www.hrtrains.com Currently, SS rail price is cheaper (even when Aristo track is on sale at 4 for 1) through HRtrains. I would get HRtrains rail and Aristo plastic tie sections. SS is virtually maintenance free.
Power: Get the largest Amp power supply you can afford. Prefer the throttle type from Bridgewerks.
First thing I would change is not spending good money on stuff I wanted at the time, but ended up selling at a loss because they didn’t quite “fit” with the rest of my stuff. (have a plan, and stick to it, bargain stuff is really no bargain if you can’t use it)
I also wouldn’t have purchased those 1st 2nd and 3rd generation Big Hauler sets that I ended up parting out after they crapped on me.
I’d commit to 1:32 and MTH. I like the American mainline stuff, big classic 2oth century steam, but you really need a lot of room to make it look good. I don’t care for the “old West” look of narrow gage, but narrow gage stock looks muh better on smaller layouts. So the answer for me would be 1:32–the smaller size works better for modest sized layouts, and I’d go with MTH because their locos come with sound and remote and a very high level of functionality. Probably stainless steel too, and I’d start with a track bender–no more sectional track
I am doing it all over again, the fourth, scratch that, the Fifth time, for that matter, in “G” gauge, once in Florida originally, in 95, than in Ohio 96 thru 98, again in Florida 98 thru 04, again after the hurricanes of 04 thru 06, and now for the fifth time 07 to the present.
I for one have chosen to use all Stainless Steel track, this time, as I use track power, a necessary “EVIL” some might say. However I don’t think there is a feasable way of doing battery power for the equipment consists that I choose to run.
And I hated the constant cleaning of Br-Ass…track…
I have also chosen to do a semi-raised/modular layout. Because I have a bad back, and don’t like to bend down constantly, and I live in a rental mobile park. All ponds are pretty much built up also, except for the initial drain back/sump pond, 4.5 feet down, 300 gallons.
I plan to power all mainline #6 switches with under mounted Tortise type switch machines, I use only #6’s on the main line. And all wide radius 10 ft diameter switches in the run through, ladder track designed yards, in the 11 by 35 foot train storage room. I got tired of removing trains from the tracks all the time on the former layouts when ever the whether turned bad, and at night…All housed 10 Ft switches in the two ladder storage yards use LGB switch machines.
I know there are those who have their own personal opinions and will readily voice them. But I have for the time, chosen to use the Kietco, Loco-Linc RC system, in-conjunction with MTH’s DCS system. Kiethcos syst