Most of us have learned a few things from our layouts, if you had to do it all over again, what would you change?
David
Frankly, the size.
I wanted HO so I pushed the size limits and built a 3.5foot x5.1 foot layout for the small room I had available to put it in. I have a 15R" oval with a 4 spur mini yard and a 2 spur engine servicing facility inside it all inside and interconnected to an 18R" oval.
I want to build it newer, about 4 foot by 5.5 foot, so I can hopefully gain two ovals of 18r" to play on. I would also use 2" foam instead of 1 inch on 12 inch on center braces.
My layout is fun to build, and it’s nice for rail-fanning. I’m primarily a Builder anyway, but the original layout doesn’t have enough operational interest to make actually running the trains a continuing interest.
I’m building Phase 2 now, and trying to overcome the two big issues - lack of industries, and lack of staging. The design will partially, but not completely, meet these goals. I added a second reverse loop, facing the opposite direction, so that I can reverse any train without backing up. I also put in a second passing siding, and located it directly “across” the layout from the original one, so that I can run 2 trains on my single-track main line in opposite directions, with meets halfway around each time.
If I were to start completely over, I would have a hidden staging yard, with a lot of space in it. This would probably be on a second level below the layout.
I would build at least one main line for electric locomotives, with catenary. I have always loved the GG-1, and the New Haven EF units.
I would do a neater job of wiring. Phase 1 of my layout was better than my teenage layout of 40 years earlier, but still sloppy. Phase 2 is coming out better, I’m happy to say.
I’d go with Code 83. The Code 100 on Phase 1 is OK, and works well, but I like the look of Code 83 better. I would use fewer Atlas snap-switches, and more Tortoises, although I’d probably stick with the snap-switches to save space in yards and industrial areas.
I’d be more aware of the need for access and maintenance. My subways have sections which are inaccessible. Illuminated buildings can’t be removed without first dealing with the wires underneath the layout.
I have an around the wall now
Previously a 4x10 platform
I would have gone right with the around the wall
David,
I am now operating my 2nd HO layout. All in all, I am pretty satisfied with it. Going into the build, I made a decision that since I was running 4 axle 50’s era diesels, 22" radius would do. My next layout will have a minimum 30" radius curves(HO). Of course over the last 17 years, really good 6 axle SD7/9’s and full length passenger ares became available! And good steam with sound…
Sometime in the next year or so, I plan to retire. The tear-down and all new layout construction will begin(should be the last one)…
Jim
Hi!
Been there, done that!
Just over two years ago I decided that my 14 year old 11x15 room filling, two level HO layout needed to be torn down and rebuilt. It took me a good year to get to that point, and being 64 at that time, I had to make a decision pretty quick.
The previous layout had nice rockwork, bulletproof track, etc., etc. But, it also had some downsides - some that took years before I recognized them as such. In short:
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I raised the outer mains up about a scale 30 feet up, and had a lot of rockwork. It was nice, but the raised track minimized interfacing with other trackage. Oh, the rockwork was painted too dark.
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I had a reverse loop in the lower level and the upper level. Both took up way too much precious room for structures, sidings and other things.
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The layout was DC, powered by two MRC Controlmaster 20s. They were great! However, I had way too many blocks wired in, and most of the turnouts were wired as well. In short, if you didn’t touch the layout for a week or so, you had to relearn how to operate it.
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I had 5 or 6 turnouts in tunnels. They never failed me, but I sure did cause the bulk of my derailments by mishandling their controls.
Anyway, the new layout - also two level, 11x15, took a long time in planning - but my “lessons learned” have been put into practice. Also, I installed DCC, and am absolutely thrilled with it - and sound.
Though I have a large basement empire in progress I have been playing around with an HO (bedroom size room) shortline converted from an interurban concept with track plan. It won’t affect my progress on the big layout with working signaling, scratchbuilt structures etc. However, I think if I would have had to do it all over again I might have been happy with the bedroom size pike. I may build the bedroom size pike on the side anyway or possibly share the track plan and concept in MR some day.
Nothing, my current layout is a joy. But this doesn’t mean I won’t try another scale or another prototype down the road.
So many options available to us now days , Blackstone HOn3 models, MTH Little Joes and Quills, On30 steam, the list goes on and on.
I just retired and moved so I am starting all over again. A couple of things I have learned from my last couple of layouts are:
use 3 ft or greater aisles most places
58" high benchwork is nice but 50" works better for me
start with adequate lighting even if it’s shop lights hanging from the ceiling
don’t wait to finish the basement if it takes more than a year - at least build a temporary layout.
Enjoy
Paul
I probobly wouldn’t, I got back in it in the nineties, but if I could, I’d never gone back into it. mh
I would build a wider basement - 4 or 5 feet would do - plus another 16 x 16 room out the front of the room like I did out the back of the basement.
I would just keep the layout I have but lengthen the peninsulas with the extra 5 feet and the new room would allow me to add some distance between two towns that are just too close together!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
After a house fire, we decided to do a complete rebuild, not save what the fire department had. One day when looking at the work in progress, we reached the top of the stairs and she said, “that’s the train room.” Well, I did run a 4z8 in the available space (13x22) for a short while, but 2 sons and a mother-in-law have occupied it more than trains. I sould have gotten busy and gotten some benchwork in the way for other uses. Alas, I’m still waiting for a chance. Now that retirement from the 25/8 part of my life (milking cows), they don’t want to give me a chance, the tools are at the ready. I suppose I could have tried for the 24x36 basement, with a little planning I could have used most of it, but at that time it didn’t cross my mind.
Have fun,
A timely post, I was just lying in bed last night pondering this same question.
I am really pleased with what I have ended up with on this particular layout. I am lucky to have a dedicated 15’ x 24’ Trainroom. However three doors, a large window, a fireplace and a large opening into the room were things I had to deal with. I think an around the walls with a peninsula (if there’s room) basement empire would be ideal.
The one thing that I wish I could change is how the backdrop is in relation to the layout. But I think it is the absolute best I could have done with what I have to work with.
First the track gets within a couple of inches of the backdrop in a couple of spots which makes the scenery “weak” in those areas. A trade off for a larger radius.
I thought a lot about Doc Waynes layout and how the curves of the backdrop are incorporated right into the walls. It is ideal, and if we ever move and I get that basement I will take the time to curve the corners like his. I also think a backdrop should go to the ceiling for maximum effect. My backdrop curves in the corners but is a long way from the ceiling. I wish Doc Wayne lived close enough that I could sneak a peak at his whole empire, not just the backdrop. I could learn a lot. His backdrop comes across as a seamless part of the whole layout, whereas mine has that bolted on look. Oh well, there’s always next time.[C):-)]
Brent
I’d consider not having a run-around track on my HO shelf switching layout and use a GP-something on each end of the train(s). I see double-ended locals more and more often on the BNSF these days, so it must work for the 1:1 guys.
I really have to add more staging and I might have designed a slightly different plan to take that into account.
I would not use a hollow-core door again for my small N-scale roundy-round. 2-inch thick foam or a slightly thicker laminate would be enough. But that was an experiment from the git-go, so…
If I could roll back the clock to the early '80s I’d probably stay with HO-Scale; not that I’m really unhappy with N-Scale but my hands are beginning to stiffen a bit with advancing age and I think that HO-Scale might be a bit more compatible with that age.
What would I change?
Nothing.
The layout I’m building is my, “Last in this lifetime,” layout, the product of four decades plus of dreaming and planning. It is about as big as I will be able to operate and maintain, incorporates all of the features I was hoping (and sometimes despairing) to include and gives me enough track space to hold my entire roster without seeming to be overstuffed.
The changes I want involve my personal health. The railroad is as good as I can reasonably hope for.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Seeing as how I am starting over…
Planning, never did enough of it before and ended up with a distinct lack of operation.
Direction, all previous ones were mostly freelance and this left me wondering what to do here, where to put that etc. This time more prototype at least for track arrangement and placement of strustures. Not sure I want to scratchbuild the structures yet but it will be recognizible to anyone familiar with the Cleveland area.
Smaller bites, this time I’m not trying to do the whole thing at once. Building useable sections and getting the benchwork.track down first, start on scenery at least before starting the next section. Eventually I hope to end up with a double deck full basement layout but in the meantime I’ll have something that can be enjoyed as a stand alone layout.
I probably should have switched to N but thats not financially practical nor a deal breaker.
Ease of use, no low duckunders. My last layout was a walk along thing but had a 40" duck (crawl) under to enter the layout for work and operation.
Broader curves on the mainline 30" minimum in my case but I’m still going with 18" on branches and spurs mainly to keep the benchwork at a managible depth.
Staging is something I’m adding, places to go things to see you know…
Was planning to start benchwork this weekend since half of the trackplan is drawn, figured I’d finish the rest of the track plan and add benchwork as I go. BUT more plumbing problems came up this week and it’s not going to be cheap…
Absolutely nothing. I have what I dreamed about for years, now just enjoy it for the rest of my modeling life.
Probably wouldn’t change very much. I have what I was looking for: lots of switching puzzles, small trains, some mainline running, mostly city scenery (not too good at modeling country scenes), and opportunity to add detailing.
The only thing that would improve my layout would be a little more space to add more cars (sound familiar?). Right now I only have room for about 20-25 cars on the layout but would like to have maybe 10-15 more.
I am considering adding some staging which would add room for more cars and allow a little more variety in consists.
I purchased a P2K GP9 with sound on DC just to try it out. Not really impressed. About the only time it is run is for visitors. Performance is very good but I guess I’m just not that interested in constant sound. Could be related to the fact that I worked in a very noisy factory for 25 years (hearing protection required in all areas).
Overall, I am quite happy with how it all turned out.
Tom
With a move planned within the next 5 to 6 years, I’m holding out for a larger basement that will let me accomplish a more realistic interpretation of my chosen modeling area. With that, my #2 goal is a large minimum radius - right now I am at 30", but I wish I could have fit 36" or even 40" or larger in.
TR