I’m thinking about ordering an IHC 2-8-2, but am concerned about how it will behave on my code 83 track. More specifically, I’m concerned about whether or not it will be able to make it through my Atlas Custom line turnouts without “bottoming out.”
Darth Santa Fe did a review a few months ago on this loco, and mentioned that the wheel flanges had recently been resized, and that it should be OK for code 83, but it didn’t sound like it was actually run on code 83. There was also another thread recently where someone used a Dremel to grind down the flanges on their 0-8-0 while the motor was running in order to make it work on their code 83 track.
Does anybody know for sure how the newer IHC 2-8-2’s behave on code 83 track? Better yet, does anybody out there actually own an IHC 2-8-2 and run it on Atlas code 83 track?
I have a test track of some Atlas Trutrack which has the code 83 track on it and my IHC steamers run fine on it.
Thanks, Simon. That makes me feel a little better.
I checked out your website, by the way - nice work on your layout! [tup]
My IHC loco’s have a date of Nov 2003 inside the box.
I have a 4-6-4 Hudson and a 0-8-0 Shifter and both have the same problem. I have solved the 0-8-0 problem but have not worked on the 4-6-2 as of this date.
Below is my solution to the problem.
I have been unable to run my IHC 0-8-0 Shifter engine on the code 83 track/turnouts after converting from code 100.
In some cases the flanges would strike the spike heads but the real problem was in the code 83 turnouts.
I considered several ways to accompli***his task but ending up choosing to use my Dremel Moto-Tool.
Here is how I did it.
I clamped the locomotive upside down in a well padded vise.
I connected a variable DC power source to the engine and selected a mid-range speed.
Using a small, fine grinding tool, about 1/2 inch in diameter and 1/2 inch wide, in the Dremel set at a rather high speed I proceeded as follows:
Making sure the Dremel was rotating in a direction that would ‘help’ the locomotive as opposed to ‘against’ the tire direction, I briefly held the tool against a drive wheel tire flange.
I only apply a light pressure for about 5 seconds before moving on to the next wheel. This was to prevent overheating the tire that could melt the plastic wheel.
I then shut everything down for about 5-10 minutes to insure further cooling. As the rotation of the grinding tool was with the rotation of the wheel there was little load on the motor and or drive train. The tire was barely warm to the touch when I stopped grinding. The tire appeared to be brass so no metal was attracted to the motor magnets.
I repeated the above on the next two tires until I had made one pass on every tire.
This took about 5 passes for each tire until the flange height matched that of another loco that was RP25 compatible.
After I was satisfied that the tire flanges were now at the RP25 height by eyeballing and comparing th
I own an assortment of IHC locomotives, both 2-8-2, 0-8-0, 4-6-2, and they all run on code 83, however as said above the turnouts are the problem the flanges bottom out in the frog, and guide rails, but a simple thin needle file will clearthis problem as all the plastic in the bottoms of these flange ways aren’t needed for support of the rail, as long as there is alittle bit you’ll be ok so… I filed out the flangeways on my code 83 turnouts and everything runs fine. HTH
Thanks, all for your replies.
Charlie - I think yours was the original thread I referred to about grinding the flanges. Doesn’t sound too difficult, but it kind of sucks to have to do all that work. Beats paying 2-3 times the price for a “better” name brand loco, though!
I think I might go ahead and order a 2-8-2 and see how it goes. Maybe all I have to do is file out the flangeways like 7600EM1 mentioned. But first I have to get purchase approval from the executive steering committe (wife) [:D]