I recently purchased a IHC 2-6-0 Mogul which I belatedly found out has grossly oversize driver flanges. The problem is when passing through shallow depth frogs the engine rise up on its flanges rocking and rolling through the turnout in a most unprototypical manner. Any sugestions on fixing this problem. I don’t own a lathe or I could turn them down. Does anyone offer this service? I’ve even thought of setting the engine on fine sandpaper and powering it up to reduce the flange depth but then the profile would be ruined. Not sure it would still track properly with the top the the flange being flat.
The ancient way to do it was to chuck the axle into an electric drill and hold a file against it- Not the ideal way but will work if nothing else will. You do have to remove one of the drivers from the axle and get a cheap micrometer to keep everything even, and then you need to get them reassembled and back in quarter.
Personally I’d check around and see if you can find replacement drivers for it. Measure the drivers (at the diameter of the tread, not he flange) and the axle dia. with a mike or even a scale rule. Then check out Bowser or Greenway Products to see if you can match them up.
i’m not sure you want to do that , whatever the wheels are made of may be attracted to the magnets in the motor
The drivers on the IHC Mogul have plated brass tires. It is barely possible to run the loco upside down and file down the flanges with a fine needle file. However, you run the risk of burning out the motor, and you won’t get the pilot wheel flanges reduced that way (not a big issue - you can always replace them.) As I say, it can be done, but it requires a very light touch with the file, and a lot of patience. Otherwise, as mentioned by aribel, driver replacement is about your only other option.
There must have been different production runs of the IHC Mogul. I have a fairly old one decorated for Illinois Central that doesn’t have pizza cutter wheel flanges. Mine is marked as a “Mehano” product on the bottom, and is at least 6 or 7 years old, now.
You might be able to get raplacement drivers from IHC’s parts department that have RP-25 contour wheels but were for a different engine, if you know their diameter. The wheels from one of their new 2-10-2 models may be the same diameter, or maybe the wheels from their current production run of the Mogul.
I would never attempt grinding down flanges unless I had a machinist’s precision lathe.
Replacement drivers are not cheap; Greenway wants $18 for 1 driver. Bowser wants a more reasonable $9.00-10.00 a driver. No guarantee that either company will have something that fits, you will have to do some measuring first and then contact them with your dimensions. You may also need different hardware to attach the side rods. Then you have to transfer the drive gear, which requires a special tool. You can scribe a mark so that quarter is not lost but you will still need a puller tool.
Contacting IHC for some later drivers is a great idea. You did not mention what code or brand turnouts you are having trouble with. You also did not mention if this was an older model or one of the recent ones. If you can come up with a drop in replacement from IHC then this is definitely your best bet. I believe the latest Premier series has the correct RP 25 profile so maybe you could try ordering a set for a newer model. Take some measurements and give them a call. A knowledgeable person on the other end of the line would be nice.
If the IHC thing falls through, depending on your skill level you might want to try real hard to modify the existing drivers, as you have nothing to lose. If it goes wrong you will still need new drivers, exactly where you are now. Lots of older Rivarossi locos have been fixed as follows: Take some tape / towels and cover up access to the motor as much as possible to keep out the debris. Use a Dremel with a cut off wheel reinforced and held at 45 degrees while running the loco at a good rpm upside down. This will save the motor as the Dremel is doing the work. Use your free hand and drag a fingernail or plastic rod to keep the driver from hopping around. Take your time and go slow. You do not need to remove much. Afterwards use #400 grit emery to smooth and round the contour of the flange. Blow out with compressed air when done and re-lube. I have heard that the file method will work but this is easier on the motor. It also requires more finesse however, so if you are not c
You may be able to increase the depth of the frogs with a small cutter in a motor tool. much easier if it works. I have an IHC camel back which is based on the mogul & it runs thru all my turnouts.
I have several IHCs including moguls. I had some very minor problems with a few of my code 83 Atlas CL frogs. The solution was a small file to add clearance. The frogs are soft metal.
Just want to thank everbody who took the time to answer my question. Very helpful. You guys are awesome!
Daverailrd