This is actually just a slightly updated version of a theater project that appeared in the hobby press back in the 70’s, with the exception of using LEDs instead of bulbs … no offence. I made a few of those signs myself at the time, and they did look pretty decent.
A MUCH simpler approach would be to use some of Miller Engineering’s electroluminescent sheets. I’ve used a LOT of this stuff and it’s really easy to work with - just cut it to shape with a pair of scissors. You can color it, paint it and even apply color decals to it …
I have purchased a Miller Engineering sign (the two part theater one) and I think it is great. I plan on using several of the Miller Engineering signs. I will follow your suggestion to get an experimenter kit (which I knew of and had forgotten about) but I kind of have a bee in my bonnet about developing the plexiglass idea. That plus the fact that I just spent a fortune on decal sheets for the signs. (Please don’t tell my wife!!) I’ll have to do some thinking before I decide which experimenter kit to buy.
What I want is a sign that is brighter than the Miller Engineering sign that I have. I want to cast a bit of a glow on the surrounding walls and sidewalks, and I want the signs to be bright enough to show up against the lighted store front windows below them. I did notice that the white panels in the experimenter kits seemed to be brighter than the theater sign that I have so I will definately have to give them a try. Also, I want something that is unique to my layout. I am interested in exploring custom decals to achieve that because as I said earlier there are actually rather few decals that lend themselves to making the signs. There is one other factor which is cost. I can make lots of plexiglass signs with what I have on hand and the Miller signs will add up.
Some of you may recall my efforts with HO vehicle headlights. What I hope to achieve is a street scene which mimics the lighting on a real 1950’s commercial street, with lots of illuminated signs, storefront windows, apartment entrances etc. and traffic lights and vehicles. I already figured that I’m going to have to run another 20 amp line into the layout room[:P]. I will consult a licensed electrician before I run any wires[:S].
Call me nuts but I really want my night scenes to come alive.
The latest (meaning, December 2013) issue of the NMRA Magazine has an article by Pierre Willermet “Electroluminescent Tape for Back-Lit Signs and Store Fronts.” This product, also called “light tape,” is evidently used in some of the animated signs available commercially. It can be cut, bent, and has other interesting qualities. If you do not get the magazine, find a friend who is an NMRA member and ask to borrow it.
I do remember in that early article that the author sanded the surface of the plexiglass as it helps to duffuse the light across the surface and not just out the edges. On your 3mm LED version, sanding the surface of the LEDs themselves also helps immensely in diffusing the light as well. I’ve used nearly a thousand of the 3mm LEDs for structure lighting, and by sanding the surface, it eliminates that pin-point of light on the ground. Kind of like comparing a spot light and a flood light.
Thanks for the lead on the NMRA article. I have been thinking of re-joining the NMRA for a while. That might push me into action. The challenge will still lie in coming up with suitable decals. They need colour if possible but more importantly they need to have the letters outlined in black so they can be seen.
Mark:
I understand what you mean. When I sand down the LEDs so I can insert them further into the core of the signs it will also accomplish what you suggest.
By the way, my mom is much more calm and relaxed now that she has made the decision to not carry on with life. She is actually smiling. Its a bit tough to go through but for us but we are hugely relieved that she is at peace.
Inkscape is the perfect program for this. It’s a vector graphics program (unlike Photoshop and GIMP which are raster graphics.) There should be plenty of tutorials on Youtube for learning to use it. And best of all…it’s FREE.
