how can i tell if my train i bought is a replica of some sort, or the real thing? or is there such a thing? what do things like f-3 and aa stand for?
The real thing thing would be much larger.
Howdy and welcome.
The F-3 was a real train and most models out there are representations of real trains. They sometimes get the details wrong but mostly they are in the ballpark. The AA I think, stands for two A units, where an engineer can sit, but it’s a guess because you provide no context.
[#welcome] to the forum. There all a lot of knowledgeable people here to help you when you need it. First off there are models of real railroad equipement, then there are models of imaginary trains. Imaginary trains are the likes of “Elvis train, nascar and football teams”. Some even represent popular movies such as the Hogwarts Express, Polar Express and Thomas, etc. F3 is the model of an early diesel. The “F” stands for freight loco, the 3 the third of that design. “FP” would mean both frieght and passenger use and genearally the same loco with a steam generator for heating in the passenger cars. A means the loco has a cab, B is the same loco with no cab. AA would mean two A units are coupled or MU’d. ABBA means four locos MU’d together with an A unit in front with two B units in the middle and another A unit as the fourth. A units are generally coupled back to back so the locos don’t need turning around. “P or PA” would be a passenger loco, “S or SW” would be a switcher, “GP” or “jeep” would be general purpose. Steam locos are designation by name or wheel arrangement. Example would be a “Pacific” loco. It has a wheel arrangement of 4-6-2 which means a 4 wheel “leading truck” (non powered) 6 drivers and a 2 wheel “trailing truck” (also generally, although there a few exceptions, non powered). I’m sure others can give a better explaination, but this is the general idea. A great site to look into that is very interesting with photos is www.rr-fallenflags.org Ken
i understand a little more now…and how do i tell if any are powered or not
Well, several ways. If new in the box, the box will more then likely say “dummie” for a non-powered model or in a catalog it will say “dummy” or non-powered. Also the weight will tell as a powered loco is most generally heavier, also a powered loco will have metal wheels on one side and plastic in the other side with pick-up springs or taps against the axles or wheels. Some use metal wheels with plastic insulators on one side where the wheel is attached to the axle. Also dummy locos will have the axles showing just like cars since there is no gearing attached to them. An exception to this would be a “dummy” loco with pick up on the wheels for lighting, but this loco would also be lighter as there would be no motor or weight for traction in it. Ken
I SUSECT you are a ‘biginner’-NEWBIE. Welcome.
I recommend LOCAL HOBBY SNOP and subscribing to the Hobby’s main publication ‘MODEL RAILROADER’ as a ‘Road map’.
Someone stocking merchandise you can see, touch, and test is best way to learn while acquiring skills. Less mistakes on purchases, too.
ALL ‘‘Models’’ are supposed to be representative of the ‘real thing’. SOME manufactureres aim for the younger ‘Toy Train’ market: ‘Tommie Train’, ‘Hogswart Express’ and ‘Little Engine that Could’.
YOU, as a buyer can make a choice. a ‘Hobby’ is a combination work and skill.
Hey guys I’m pretty new too! Does this ‘Model Railroader’ magazine just talk about HO layouts and trains or does it talk about all different size tracks and subjects?
ono, its the real thing, anytime we ride a train we go thru a “shrinker” so we can fit in them tiny things…
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Look at the bottom of this web page - see all links marked “For newcomers” ?
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Try clicking on these links and reading a bit about trains (full size) and model railroading (in many scales) - it will answer quite a few of these very basic questions.
Then come back here if you have more specific questions on model railroading. There are tons of helpful people around here.
Welcome to the hobby. Have fun!
Smile,
Stein