I’m thinking about getting the jig for doing turnouts. I like this idea because then I am not limited mail order, etc. and I can save about $15 apiece over Pecos.
However, when it came time to pick a rail, I didn’t know what to make of it. Where does one get rail? You can order the ties from FastTracks. I’m thinking code 83, but the Rock Ridge Module is code 100 EZ track. Is it easy to marry the two.
I’m assuing I can either use Caboose Hand throws or Turtles.
My layout design calls for all #4’s so I can get just one jig.
With my small locos running DCC, I’m assuming that having all metal rails and frogs will be a good thing.
Fastrack sells micro engineering rail on their web site. I mail ordered my rail, but I have seen it at train shows. Transition rail joiners are available for code 83 to 100, but I have not used them with EZ track.
If you read through fasttrack’s web site, you’ll see that they recommend Micro Engineering’s rail because they designed their jigs to ME’s rail base width. They also talk about the tolerance of the ME’s base width (.001", I think). I don’t know if Atlas or others hold that same tolerance or not, but rail sections vary by manufacturer, so I’d go with the recommendation fasttracks makes. On the other hand, if you tell them which rail you want, they’ll custom manufacture a jig for you.
As is usually the case, Mark is right on the…well…anyway, umm, yes, by all means, use the Micro track. I think I must have purchased a hefty bundle of Atlas or something and found that it was not at all easy to insert into the jig grooves. It often resulted in some torsioned rail tops by the time I had soldered some of the cut and shaped rail segments to the pcb ties.
Mouse, you will be mightily pleased with those turnouts…maybe not the first you make, but they get better real quick, and you will be able to use them forever. Just for the ease of use in DCC and those fantastic non-filled frogs, they are worth every penny.
Tim is also very good with his support. He gets back to you quickly.
I have been using the Fast Tracks jigs for over a year now. I have the 4,5 and 6 and have built over 40 so far,worth every penny! As stated,the more you build,the faster and easier it becomes,and the better they come out. One thing I do if I need a number of switches at one time,for example in a yard situation,is to do grind the rail points and frogs all at once,then solder in the jig in assemblyline fashion. As for rail,I use the ME code 83 and Peco code 83 flex. They mate perfectly. I’m thinking of using Atlas 83 in my hidden areas,but haven’t done so as of yet,so I can’t comment on its qualities. As an aside.with the $$ you’ll save at building your switches,some can be used to offset the cost of the other track used.
Extruded rail varies in thickness as it is pulled through a die (+/-). Looser tolerances produce greater yields - hence lower prices. Stick with M/E. Micro Engineering rail also has a more realistic profile / cross section. Atlas flextrack is seldom in gauge.
You’ve improved.
My favorite tracksite for do-it-yourself-ers: http://www.troutcreekeng.com/bkho.html Rail, ties, spokes.accurate kits, - everything. Save on shipping. Oi-veh.
I have considered them all. The largest loco I’ll be running is the old-time Consolidation. I’ve just found that the short wheel-base of the old-timers work just fine with #4’s and I can do more in the space. Beleive me I like the look of the larger turnouts.
There are places I can use larger turnouts and not lose anything, but then I’d be looking at a second jig for just a few turnouts.
Maybe a thought would be to get a group together that each has a differnt jig and trade to get a variety of turnouts.
I’m also thinking that once I get a little better with the jig, soldering, etc. I might try getting off the jig for a little free-style turnout work.
I have made two scratch-built turnouts using only the frog jigs to get the points decent. One is a diverging curved #6, 'cuz that was the only thing that would save my bacon with 88% of the track finalized. I have the jigs for #6 double-slips. I am pleased to say that it is my best turnout so far…[:O]
The other is a curved #8-9 where a W/S curved #7.5 wasn’t going to work for me.
If you really wouldn’t mind finding room for a couple of #8’s, I would be happy to send my jigs to you. I won’t need them for some time.
I have #5 Code jigs and love them. They do make great smooth switches thats for sure.
Couple words of advice:
Like others say get the ME rail.
Buy the pilobond from them it is hard as hell to find locally. I tried thick CA with limited success.
Get a good soldering Iron with a round tip like they suggest. They say 35 watt but I could only find a 40 watt and it works great.
Plan on your first switch to not be perfect. Don’t get frustrated they get really easy.
Find some or buy from them the super thin core solder it makes a big difference.
I found painting them with an airbrush works better then a shaker can. Let the paint dry well before handling. And besure to wash them off with soap and water before painting to get rid of the flux.
I use a dremel with a sanding drum to remove the base of the stock rails at the point. I use a slow speed and it works great.
I see they now offer 4.5 switchs which might be something you may want to look into if you decide to run some bigger equipment.
Thats about all that I can think of. They are smooth switches.
I spent a small fortune on FastTracks stuff a couple of months ago, and don’t regret it.
The first turnout I made came out rather nice. Probably not perfect, but acceptable enough to use. If you do the little demo with a truck like you see in their video, using one you made with their jigs and a factory made turnout, you’ll see the difference. The wheel doesn’t fall into the frog… Just rolls through, like it should.
Turnouts are easy to make with the FT kit. They do make several different types of jigs to accomodate different rail manufacturers. Just select the one you want. They only sell ME rail, but nothing stops you from ripping rail out of a peice of Atlas flextrack… The ME rail is stiffer, so it tends to stay where you want it when forming it. You can always power the frog if need be anyway.
So it’s a little more time and labour intensive compared to ripping open a blister pack. Rolling your own should be more relaxing and satisfying then fighting with a blister pack anyway.
You can always watch the videos posted to their site to get an idea of the process and what results you can expect.
I’d recommend a non-corrosive flux, or rosin flux (like that used for electrical work) instead of acid flux. But you need flux, it just makes soldering that much easier. Thin gauge solder helps a lot too.
A Sharpie comes in handy to mark rails when you need to grind material off them.
For grinding I bought a bench sander (as seen in the videos) like this one http://tinyurl.com/y79ah8
Makes it just that much easier.
The end result is a switch better than you can buy.
Here I go again! I build all of my own specialwork, and have yet to use a jig of any description. As a result, from my point of view, rail is rail - the only thing I don’t do is mix different codes (heights) within a single turnout. I have code 100 rail from Atlas (mostly in the form of flex track,) Shinohara, Cactus Brass (a batch that didn’t quite meet Shinohara spec, acquired in 1964) and the unknown manufacturer of some, “Made in Italy,” brass flex. Any or all of it may end up in a given turnout. (The brass is fine for guard rails.)
Right at the moment (well, up to an hour ago, and continuing tomorrow) I’m in the process of assembling a yard throat - a crossover, approximately #5, and a pair of left-turn-only 3-way switches laid to 600 mm radius (or more, but not less,) that lead into four spur tracks. The lead is dead straight, at a track angle of 94 degrees to the spurs. Pretty obviously there are no jigs for that kind of design, but I have no problems with it. Two three point gauges, an NMRA gauge and some careful rail bending, filing and spiking will get me where I’m going. I honestly consider proper tie placement to be the most difficult part of the job!
My advice is, lay out a practice turnout or several on card stock over foam, and build them out of whatever rail you might have on hand anchored with whatever spikes (or even wire nails!) you care to use. Once you get the knack of forming the rails, filing points and keeping everything in gauge and radius you’ll be ready to tackle anything. Even a scissors crossover with two double slip switches opening a two track main into a four track station will simply be an easily surmountable challenge.
As for powered frogs - if you roll your own, they are the easiest way to fly. If you’re going to run short wheelbase steam (or MU cars that only pick up from one truck on each side) insulat
Another option you might consider is the Central Valley switch kits. I love them, although I’m still experimenting with them. I’m thinking of getting one of the fast track frog jigs just to help with that part. The CVT ties have scale tie plates (that keep the track in gauge as well) so I think they look better with flex track than switches handlaid without them.
Whichever way you go, CVT recommends that you just take the rails off of some of your flex track so you’re using the same rails as the rest of your layout. So if you’re using Atlas just pick up a few extra pieces of flex track.