I suppose one could argue that he’s modeling an HO version of the backsaver throws railroads are using nowaday. Then again I suppose one could model the backsaver handle and attach that to the throw in lieu of the oversized lever.
I have been using the N-scale 206s caboose groundthrow for the past 25+ yrs. without any problems on Atlas code 83 #4 turnouts, which is what I use on all Industrial sidings. Atlas #6 turnouts are all powered. To Me whoever started that so called rumor more than likely never even attempted to try it. I have no problems throwing them. Most serious modelers usually carried an uncoupler tool in their shirt pocket to assist them.
The first one controls that turnout, second one controls the turnout in the brick street. A brass tube (1/8’’ imbeded in the homsote bass with 1/16’’ linkage inserted into the center hole of the turnout drawbar to groundthrow works flawlessly as does the other 15 on the layout. Layout which is DC is now 41 yrs. old.
Take Care!
Frank
The N scale ones did not work om my HO Shinohara turnouts, the HO ones have very little overthrow when used with my turnouts.
Frank,
How did you remove the guard rails from the switch in the street?
Jumijo,
I did not remove the guardrails from the turnout. I cut the street around them. The brick is from Walthers cornerstone street system when they first came out. The entire brick street is roughly 11 ft. long, plus a 6ft. 1/2 circle extension.
Those photos can be clicked on for a larger view, along with these:
Take Care![swg]
Frank
A model railroad is a hole in your life that you throw money into
I have to put it somewhere, I got rid of the big house with the swimming pool…
Trains are more fun than the pool ever was…
Sheldon
My black Lab (RIP) would totally disagree with You Sheldon…LOL [swg]
Take Care!
Frank
Hmmmm. I’m thinking that the surrounding material is the expensive component and the hole itself is relatively free…
Or, its like Dunkin Donuts, which sells you doughnut holes that aren’t really holes at all…
Cost is how well you shop. I have broke even over the years by making wise purchases and selling some things when they were in demand. I have been able to upgrade over the years too.
Back to the OP’s subject…
I had about two dozen CH ground throws on my HO layout, and they lasted the life of the layout - about 12 years - without ANY malfunctions. Of course a key to that is getting them properly positioned and secured (I used screws).
Yes, they are oversize, and have that “Delrin sheen” that looks so unrealistic (to me anyway). So I painted them all with a “flat black, rust color, thinner” wash using Testor’s paints. This made quite a difference, and helped them to blend somewhat into the ground cover.
Weren’t those the holes that were counted to see how many would fill the Albert Hall?
I think the interest in the CH ground throws for me is that it is low tech (easy to install and maintain) and rugged. One thing I did was to ensure that the arm was in the upright position when in the “default” position. In other words, when all is aligned for normal mainline running, the few CH ground throws I have (3) are all in their upright position, which I find a bit more convincing in appearance. I did file the top part a bit to make it thinner, a bit like a piece of tin would look like. I painted mine craftpaint charcoal grey. Sure, the paint wears off but annual touch-ups do the job.
Most people don’t even know what the real ones look like anyway [:)].
Simon
Don’t you lose 1/2 the available throw when you do this?
Actually, I can do the throw and bring it back almost vertical without engaging the switch. I should say that these are tight switches (I don’t know the number…), and it does not take much to throw them.
Simon