I have used Micro-Mark’s metal uncoupling tool for years but the one with the sharp point in no longer available. I have small magnets on my facia to hang these (two) on when not being used. Recently I purchased some short (4") wooden skewers at a Dollar Store and “screwed” two 19-32 (?) zinc nuts on the end of the skewer (with a short space between) so that they could be attached to the magnets when not in use. I use four, scattered across the facia and they work so well I have “retired” the Micro-Mark metal ones since these are much lighter. Bonus–I have enough to make 100 of them for $1 ! Ha!
It’s nice of you to share your ideas, but this has been a long known method for uncoupling.[:)] The nuts for magnets might be a handy idea for some viewers.
Taking it one step further, I use the wooden skewers and attached a small flashlight to them. Shine the light down between the cars and makes for very easy uncoupling.
Yeah, I realize the skewer is “old hat” but I thought the 4" ones are perfect size. The metal to magnet feature is what is useful to me as my layout is a 2 ft by 18 ft shelf in my garage. These skewers are now always “at hand.”
Bamboo skewers or wooden? I’m using bamboo with unpredictable results. Mind you the special Kadee tool works no better.
These are some type of hard wood, very strong.
I have never been able to make an uncoupling tool or skewer work.
Whatever muscle-movement this requires, I just do not seem to be capable.
I also cannot juggle!
-Kevin
I use the Rix sticker. All you need is slack between the cars. I’ve had better success with this than any rod or pole.
I use the long toothpicks restaurants use on their sandwiches. To keep them together.
I haven’t seen 4" skewers before. That would make them handy. for tight clearance spots
I just use a long shaft flat screwdriver. One twist and they are opened and separated
shane
Me too, they also work perfect to throw my little sub mini slide switch turnout ground throws.
Sheldon
.190-32 is the same thing as the (more commonly encountered) #10-32 fine thread nut.
Thinner skewers would ‘take’ smaller nuts. I wonder, though, whether in these sizes coarse threads might not give better ‘bite’…
trnj, Like the magnetic skewer idea. Maybe old news, but to smoothen the uncoupling action I like to keep the business end of my skewers coated with graphite.
Thanks & regards, Peter
I custom adjust the length of my uncoupling skewers…with a hobby knife or saw…most times I leave them original length.
Im unable to determine if the twisting motion is enhanced or inhibited by surface roughness of the skewer tip.
I am also mystified by the various explanations as to where between the knuckles to insert the uncoupler stick and exactly how to twist it to release the couplers.
I’ve concluded the method is fundamentally hit and miss, no way to achieve success 100% of the time.
I have used the Rix magnetic uncoupling tool with some success. It does take practice.
One big advantage it sticks to my under lyou filing cabinet so I can always find it [:D]
Count me among those who use a flat screwdriver. I use the mini screwdrivers. They are long enough to reach the couple but short enough to put in my shirt pocket when not in use. The idea of a fascia mounted magnet to hold them is intriguing. My only concern would be they would get knocked off the magnets when brushing against them which is inevitable. Maybe a recessed pocket.
Anybody got a good method for uncoupling passenger cars with diaphragms. I’ve tried several methods but none I am really happy with. The best I have come up with is to drop in a KD between-the-rails magnet at the point I am going to uncouple and then just pull the train over it until the couplers are over the magnet. This works reasonably well but I have a tendency to forget to pick the magnet back up when done with the switching moves and also have a tendency to misplace the magnet which is really annoying. Also you have to make sure your coupler pins are not hanging low or they will catch on the magnet. You can’t have any access ballast on top of the ties where you are going to drop the magnet either or it will sit too high.
[quote user=“John-NYBW”]
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NVSRR
I just use a long shaft flat screwdriver. One twist and they are opened and separated
shane
Me too, they also work perfect to throw my little sub mini slide switch turnout ground throws.
Sheldon
Count me among those who use a flat screwdriver. I use the mini screwdrivers. They are long enough to reach the couple but short enough to put in my shirt pocket when not in use. The idea of a fascia mounted magnet to hold them is intriguing. My only concern would be they would get knocked off the magnets when brushing against them which is inevitable. Maybe a recessed pocket.
Anybody got a good method for uncoupling passenger cars with diaphragms. I’ve tried several methods but none I am really happy with. The best I have come up with is to drop in a KD between-the-rails magnet at the point I am going to uncouple and then just pull the train over it until the couplers are over the magnet. This works reasonably well but I have a tendency to forget to pick the magnet back up when done with the switching moves and also have a tendency to misplace the magnet which is really annoying. Also you have to make sure your coupler pins are not hanging low or they will catch on the magnet. You can’t have any access ballast on top of the ties where you are going to drop the magnet either or it will sit too high.
YouTube.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d3gwwzJDwUI
Go straight to 1:22; what comes before that is excruciating.
Clear, well-lit demonstration of what you do; by extension you’ll easily see which ‘improvements’ are likely to work, and why.
I have thought for years about building a device that exerts no downward or oblique pressure on the couplers – like what the flat-blade screwdriver does without the line contact between plastic and the blade edge. One design involved rebranding and filing the little arms on one of those pickup tools to form a hollow segmented parallel cylinder thin enough to insert into a knuckle, with Bowden cable or equivalent that would push a tapered end into the center to expand it laterally, then retract with spring tension when ‘the joint is unmade’. You’ll note that in all that time I actually never built one…
Perhaps the simplest ‘alternative’ that does the action is to file the end of a skewer to a parallel oval shape, that will act as a lateral cam, and then insert and turn like the screwdriver. Mark the skewer so you know how to hold it so the oval drops into one knuckle. When it is in, just turn it either way gently rolling in your fingers to get the ‘cam’ action that pushes the knuckles sideways to open.
It seems to me that there are two ways the action occurs – one with slack, where the tool goes between the knuckles, and one where the knuckles are together and the tool goes into the coupler. The cam action would be applied the same but the action hinging the knuckle that opens is a little different. I think I can see why a little lubricant on the tip is valuable.
You and me both! After trying for several tries, I can sometimes get it. But it is far from “easy”.
If you ever get good at it, please make a video!
Maybe you can teach this old dog a new trick.
-Kevin