I’ve been trying to use ink jet printed decals using MicroMark paper with mixed results. I follow the directions and get rather thick decals even though I’ve tried hard to get very light coats of the clear sealer. When I transfer I get poor adhesion and the decals curl. If I use setting solution they curl even worse. I’d like to solve the problem as the printing works very well and those that work come out great.
I use Microscale’s Liquid Decal Film to seal my decals. It’s a brush-on, not a spray. I’ve had pretty good luck with it, and the decals don’t usually curl. I do weigh down the edges of the sheet of paper before applying the film. This helps keep the decals from running.
For a good decal application on a train or vehicle, I make sure I’ve got a clean, smooth surface. Apply a coat of gloss or satin spray, if necessary. A flat surface doesn’t work as well. Then I use Micro-Set (again, from Microscale) and finaly Micro-Sol to settle the decal down into any uneven parts of the surface.
I like to use a small paintbrush to apply small decals. This is a good tool for smoothing and straightening the edges. If the decal is very small, I try to slide it off the paper backing directly on to the model, rather than separating the decal from the paper and then putting it on. This is another technique that helps reduce curling.
Have you considered moving to a Color Laser printer? I made the move from an inkjet for the reasons you outlined above. Ill see if I cant find a pic of my latest units…
Now, where is that camera.?
David B
Found it…
You will notice how crisp the edges of the letters are. The large number on the long hood look very nice with little or no film showing. The small “Proud to be part of Canadian Pacific” again is legible and not really doable with an inkjet printer.
Also of note is “fire extinguisher” to the left of the “5”. The camera didnt pick this up well, but it is very crisp.
I had to make these decals because they are not available for this road as of yet…
David B
I’ve heard hunting for it is half the fun… [:P]
What can you tell us about your setup-- laser printer, toner, fonts used, font-sizes, colors, etc? Those look very nice and I’m definitely interested and all ears. What about “white ink” ?
Mike - what you are describing happens to your homemade decals sounds to me very much like you are applying far too much clear overcoating to the decals. This will result in the top surface, as compared to the decal paper below it, failing to become soft when dipped in water, or when having setting solution applied. Such conditions produce curling of the decal, since the top surface remains semi-solid, while the decal paper tries to go limp. Same problem is true in cases of lack of adhesion, since the decal will be unable to fully “relax” down onto the model’s surface, setting solution or no.
The clear overcoat spray should be applied very thinly…just a couple of passes of a light mist and only just enough to seal the printing in. Experiment a little to see just how much spray needs to be applied to keep the printing from running when placed in water. Likely it’s much less than you are currently using.
CNJ831
The printer I use is very affordable for a Color Laser…
Samsung CLP-315
The street price is around 120-150 depending on where you buy it. I got mine for 130 Canadian.
The decals I use come from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350285093538
The decals come with protective covers on the front side and do NOT require any clear coating before application. The film is very thin and application to the model goes very well (better than microscale). I just pressed the decal into the nooks and crannies and it conformed.
In terms of white ink, you are out of luck. If you could find some white toner, you might be in buisness.
I clear coat the model with Future Floor polish before and after the decal application.
David B
Those look real nice, David, on a white background. What about on a colored background like yellow or red? My experience has been that the ink/toner is translucent and the background color bleeds through changing the color of the decal. If you have found some way around this, please share.
DC
I’ve had great luck using the Evan Designs decal paper. It takes inkjet printer ink very well with crisp image edges. Just like the manufacturer claims, this decal paper does not require a sealer coat! Simply let the printer ink cure for about 30 minutes and the decals are good to go. This paper only comes in a white background, but the background turns clear if the decals are oversprayed with Testors DulCote. White lettering on a colored background can be performed by printing white letters on a colored background matching the model’s paint color. However, white lettering decals must not be oversprayed with DulCote or the white lettering will disappear (become clear). Use an acrylic clear finish over such decals to retain the white lettering. Keep in mind that the white background turns clear when the decals are wetted for installation or when oversprayed with an acrylic clear. However, the opaque white will return as the decal dries. If DulCote is used over the decals, the white background will turn clear but will stay clear when the decal dries.
Long time no see, DC!
To answer your question because I work in the printing industry…colored printing inks/toners are really designed to be used on a white background, and are therefore translucent to allow the light to bounce off of the background and back through the printed material. So, if you print a red decal on clear decal paper and put it on a yellow locomotive, say…your decal will appear to change to orange. If you look really closely at a lot of the really good custom decals, you might just find that they are actually printed with the color over a white backing layer.
I tried printing some decals for a set of F-units for my local club. The decals were in LV Cornell Red (or as close as my printer could come) and were going on a black unit. When applied, the lettering was basically invisible!
Thanks, everyone for the suggestions. Since I can’t spry any less from the can that came with the decal kit, I’m going to try airbrushing gloss coat.
Hi, Robert. In the little hobby time I have, I’ve been busy trying to get my COSF 12-5 and some slotted pilots for my P2ks done.
I know this subject has been covered before, but thanks again for the info. That has been my experience to date.
I had some decals printed up for me on an Alps, but I could just make out the white along one edge of the letters. It was thin, but next to the red, it looked like a slight pinkish shadow. The person was real nice, and tried to correct it several times, but to no avail. Actually, the small 4-6in stuff was usable in some cases.
Thanks to Hornblower’s tip, I think I’ll try that Evan Designs paper. Sounds promising.
Later,
DC