What are your thoughts and opinions on Bowser steamers, in the context of running and detailing?
Fact or fiction: Can they really pull the bumper off a '48 Desoto?
Thanks!
Tom
Bowser locomotives if assembled correctly run very good. As for derailing that depends on you track. If you have good track they do not have derailing problems.
How weak is a '48 Desoto Bumper? The Bowser engines are all metal, except for the gears and insulation, making them as heavy as can be. Consequently, they don’t need no “stinkin” traction tires. The old T-1 body was cast lead, making the engine, alone, weighing over two pounds.
Michael,
That’s deTailing, not deRailing.
Tom
Tom;
Using care during assembly, they run very well. Pulling power is impressive.
As far as detailing goes, think of them as an almost blank canvas that you can the specific details you desire. If you want to match a particular locomotive, on a particular date, and have the pictures to support the project, Bowser locomotives are an excellent starting point. They do not have the fine detailing of Spectrum, P2K or BLI.
Take their UP Challenger for example.
It is generic eneugh that you can in addition to making the as deisgned UP 3900 class as redesigned after the big boy, It can be coaxed into the erlier class that was ultimatly renumbered into the 3800 class. You can also coax it into the Baldwin made Challengers for NP,GN,SP&S, D&H and WM if you are so inclined. I there are several bowser engines I want to build. Just need the money. Oh well. We shall see.
James
Bowser engines are generally pretty good. The boiler castings are a bit rough, and the details provided in the basic kits are a bit…well, basic…but they’re solid engines that should last a lifetime. I’ve built five (PRR H9, PRR A3, PRR L1a, USRA light Mike, generic Northern), and have added the HH motors to all of them.
The Pittmann motor that comes witht hem DOES need to be replaced though. I prefer the Helix Humper drop-ins, just because they’re the simplest conversion on the block. All Bowser engines can use more detailing than they come with, even the ones with the superdetail sets. If you plan on building a fleet of them, lay in a supply of brass wire and Bowser’s paper catalog (the website doesn’t yet show every part they make!).
One point though: EVERY one of the Bowser USRA engines is WRONG, at least in some major way. The cabs are the normal culprit (Greenway makes the only correct USRA cab on the market), but some have real problems. As far as I’ve been able to determine, their USRA light Mike matches NO known prototype (Baker valve gear and the fabricated trailing truck don’t go together). With every USRA engine that Bowser makes now available in plastic, I’ve opted for the plastic rather than pot metal engines. The Pennsy 2-8-0 is an odd mix of H9 and H10, and the NYC K-11 is rather crude (but the only small NYC-specific engine on the market). And the “Casey Jones” 4-6-0 and 2-8-0 are completely freelance, and rather crude as well.
So…if you’re a Pennsy modeler, a freelancer, or someone who enjoys building steam kits, Bowsers are great. If you need USRA or non-Pennsy prototype engines, you’re better off with Bachmann, BLI and Life Like.
This may not apply to today’s Bowser models, but I built one back years ago, and it was a good model and ran very well. However back then they were a “modelers” kit in that there was a lot of clean-up work and trial-and-fit with jewelers files. That was back in the days of the loop-hook couplers also. I do wish other manufacturers would offer locomotive kits or semi-kits. Ken
I built a K4 Pacific back in 1972 - my first kit locomotive. I loved it, but I switched to S. Otherwise I would build all their engines.
Enjoy
Paul
I think that Bowser’s steam engine kits are very good. They do require some filing, but once they’re detailed and painted and built they are something to be proud of.
The old Pittman motors may not have been the best runners, but the new Pittman motors that now come with them run as well as a high quality can motor. They are also powerful enough that they could pull a REAL freight train.[:)]
The NYC K-11 is crude in detailing because it was their second engine. They were still figuring out how to do things when they made it, so it’s not as good as some of their newer engines and cars. The Casey Jones 4-6-0 and Old Lady 2-8-0 were originally made by Varney as a simple, inexpensive kit for anyone. The Casey Jones is based on a real engine, but the real one got buried when a tunnel caved in around 80 or 100 years ago, so they didn’t have much to look at and go by when they made it.
I had a Bowser Old Lady 2-8-0 as folks are saying get them together right and the ran smooth and pulled well The main boiler casting was from the Varney Old Lady Which I always thought was a good looking steamer.Mine was kinda like a real one it had its own personality…Cox 47
Has anyone ever put dual motors in an articulated steamer? Just wondering on the complexity of the conversion…
Mark in Utah
And the “Casey Jones” 4-6-0 and 2-8-0 are completely freelance, and rather crude as well.
Actually, that’s not quite true. The “Casey Jones”, while crude, is based on an SP T-28 4-6-0. The 2-8-0 (called the “Old Lady” by Varney) was created using the same boiler. For the most part, this is old Varney tooling from the 50’s (except for the Bowser frames, which are brass - the Varney’s were cast metal).
I scored an old (really old) Varney 4-6-0 off Ebay a while back. It’s going to get a complete rebuild including can motor with NWSL gearbox, brass detailing, and a nice new Vanderbilt tender from Spectrum.
Andre
Just purchased a challenger Bowser kit on ebay with the super- detailing kit. Will detail it for GN instead of UP. The Bowsers are good kits that run well, but not a project for a beginner. They need a lot of filing, tweaking and patience with small parts, rivets, etc. But they can pull a lot, can be detailed for your road, and are a lot cheaper to purchase than a brass. Plus the thrill of pointing it out on the layout and saying- “I built that!”
Good luck
Randy Johnson
I wouldn’t go so far as to say Bowsers are a lot cheaper than brass. With the money I would have spent on a few of the Pennsy Bowser kits and super detail kits, I was able to buy brass versions of the engine, (K4, I1, L1, and H9) All of them cost me under $300.
Eric
I have wanted to dual motor my Big Boy, I havent been on the project for a while, but
it takes some modeling inginuity, but I think it can be done, but I would use 2 smaller motors opposed to the one larger motor for both driver sets.
I would also consider regearing such as NWSL gears. but thats very advanced work.