I want to buy and install the Walthers warren truss bridge…
in the space you see below
but I think I’ve already screwed up by glueing down the foam supports nearest the lower track. So… I figger (I think thats a Southern word… figger), pieces A and B will have to be taken up and moved.
I have a level area shown in the photo below and also where the bridge would start and end since it is 15 inches long.
actually the level part starts about an inch past both the arrows (in my favor!) so I figger I’ve got about 6 inches or so level BEFORE the bridge would start. Is this going to be enough with no problems or have I forgotten anything?
I’ve never installed one of these but I’m guessing you would place a foam (in my case) support under each end and then cover that over with an abutment and wing walls. Is that right?
Thanks,
JaRRell
Sounds to me like you are on the right track [:D]. what you described is exactly how I installed my Truss bridge on my layout.
Here is a pic.
This is before I placed the tracks in this area.
Here it is later with a train crossing it durring track testing.
Keep up the good work your layout is looking good so far.
Carve back the top edges of the abuttments to make them either piled riprap, or you could smooth the slope and make either plaster or styrene formed concrete. I don’t see, from your pictures, that you will have much of a problem shaping them, and the bridge will fit the gap.
Or, use a steel spatula to dig up those blocks, move 'em back, and I figger [:D] you can make your intended span that way. Either way, you still have to shave those blocks so that they eventually look like manufactured abuttments.
Hey!!! What happened with the time off you were talking about?
That is it Mike. Hey, what type of material are you using for terrain? It looks good so far.
JaRRell
“Hey!!! What happened with the time off you were talking about?”
I can’t help it, I’m addicted. Sometimes I have a hard time going to sleep ‘cause I lie there thinkin’… I’ll do this over there and that over here and maybe have room for the other.
I think I’ll go ahead and order the bridge… 
Thanks for the help!
JaRRell
I figger I lost about 20 hours of sleep over the three months I built my layout…at least. Like you, I couldn’t put my mind to rest.
When I was in the Armed Forces, I made it a point to avoid taking work home. My commitment was 24/7 anyway, but I didn’t have to share my home with it. When I built the layout, though, I could hear it whining in the basement…you know, that hi-pitched piercing whine like young dogs emit when they think you’ve left them alone?
I think the lack of sleep made me forget about builiding a yard and passing track.
I hope you enjoy the bridge.
-Crandell
Crandell,
I know exactly where you are coming from!!! Ever wake up in the middle of the night with a great idea that just forces you to check the Walthers catalog or make a quick trip to the layout to see if it would work?
Dave
Ohhhh, Dave, we really shouldn’t be going down this path.[:P][X-)]
I was up past midnight this morning, as usual, surfing around the Fast Tracks site. I have been working on a plan to refubish my layout…it will be fairly substantial. So, the gears are turning, and I’m thinking that I will need at least one #6 three-way, two double-slips, and about as many #6 turnouts as the kit that he sells will allow me.
That will be the next big chunk of cash, but I am tired of the rickety-rick of EZ-Track. I really want to do a good job of the track this time.
-Crandell
JaRRell
If you look at my website ( http://members.cox.net/southmassey ) you can see the progression of my terrain.
For this part of the layout I used Woodland Scenics foam system with the risers, inclines, and plaster cloth. After I layed the plaster cloth down I smooth it over with my fingers and then let it dry for about a day maybe two then painted the ground “dirt” color. This is about the color of the dirt where I grew up in WA state so that is what I chose to use. I think it turned out pretty good. I am going to use the plaster cloth again but I dont think I am going to use the foam system that they have. It does not form a hard enough shell to witstand much weight or accidently dropped items.
Looks about right to me too Jarrell. I’ve installed several bridges on my layout and your flat leadins/leadouts are longer than mine. I’ve had no problem with my shorter ones so I “figger” your 15" Warren should work well.
Trevor
Mike, those are great pictures of your layout. But, do I understand that you’re tearing the layout down for a new baby?
Ouch!
I’ll be glad when I get to the point I can put some ‘ground color’ paint down. I’m sick of looking at blue.
Jarrell
Guys, you know it’s bad when you get up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom and realize you’ve been dreaming about working on the layout. Bad enough to consiously do it, but in your sleep!
Jarrell
Ok Trev, I was a little worried about having enough flat area but looks like it’ll be ok.
Thanks,
Jarrell
JaRRel, the flats just have to get just under each end of the bridge. At 15", even with two brass locos on it, the foam will do a good job of supporting the bridge…although I can’t speak for sag in the structure itself.
However, my reply here is more about the grades; have you made good transitions to level by the time the tracks meet the bridge? Once you get the bridge, you’ll probably want to notch the edges of the abuttments so that the deck slips into the depressions and still sit on the shelf that you leave, but even if you merely sit the deck on the edges of the abuttments, either way you will probably have some shaving further back from the deck to lower those transitions. The deck tracks and approach tracks have to meet. Am I being clear?
-Crandell
I was just getting to like that layout and was starting to form some new Ideas for it as well but… No biggy I am going to build a new layout and I have, with the help of a few nice people here in the forums, came up with a new 4x8 design that meets all my criteria for a layout. I posted a new topic for some ideas on making the leg work small and portable as well (I know you guys can give me some ideas to try here too [;)] ). I cant wait to see some new pics of your layout progress. I am going to keep looking for them as often as I can. Keep up the good work and the blue will do away very soon.
Oh and dreaming about building a layout? Hmmm… Waking up in the middle of the night with a new Idea tha you just have to try? Yup been there and have not left yet I still do it!!!
Hmmm… I think I understand what you’re saying. When I get the bridge I’ll probably have a dozen questions about it then. The level area starts, or will start about 5 inches from the edge of the bridge. Hopefully that’s enough. 
Jarrell
Good luck with the new baby. The years will fly so fast he’ll be ‘helping’ you before you know it.
Jarrell
Jarrell,
As Selector says that notching for the supports, I like to use scraps of clear pine for the supports for all bridges. These can be glued to your newly positioned foam risers. The notch should be figured to be from the tie down to under the bridge girder/ shoes. The wood can be carved, painted or as I do, veneer with plaster stone castings or sheet styrene with the selected finish. Great to see your progress so far.
Bob K.
If that is the Walthers double-track truss bridge, it is 10 3/4" in length and requires a 1/2" drop below grade level for the mounting pads.
That’s a good idea, Bob.
Thanks!
Jarrell