Has anyone replaced the standard-issue truck-mounted couplers on the new-generation Lionel American Flyer rolling stock with body-mounted Kadee couplers? If so, what suggestions do you have for making such a modification?
I havent done it, but I would imagine the cars would couple much closer requiring wider radius curves. That would be my main concern.
You will need to try it on two cars first as you may not like the results. The things to look for are cars touching each other on curves or derailing on curves. Kadee couplers are for people who have a passion for realism on their trains.
I have had a couple of body mounted couplers in O gauge and had to sell the frieght cars at a train show as they were not compatible with my other frieght cars.
Lee F.
I have no experience with Flyer cars or S Gauge. I have changed out all of my O gauge freight fleet as well as some passenger cars. Every car type required something different. I did this mostly from an opperational view. But do admit they do look much better. I wanted to take advantage of the super slow speeds my switchers can perform at. Picking up a car on a siding required a wheel stop to close the coupler. The Kadee’s couple at slow speeds barely moving the car. They also never pull apart. One of my yard leads is 3 rail 054. No problem with body mounted couplers.
Looking at the new catalog. I would think that drilling out the stamped steel frame on a boxcar would be pretty straightforward. The coupler can be secured with small screws and nuts by removing the body. All thats needed is a flat surface to mount the coupler box. You will need a standard as far as height. Seeing these couplers are smaller they are less forgiving and should al ride at the same height. Shims made out of brass or simple washers and a gauge of some sort will keep your cars the same. Some of the other cars pictured will require a little more work. Cars such as hoppers, tank cars, and gondolas you can’t have the hardware showing nor on some is there any place to mount it. A Lionel flat I recently did required making a mounting block out of strip steel. Cutting, drilling and tapping is required. A drill press is almost a must. This mount is epoxied to the car body and serves as a mount to the Kadee coupler box. Most every car I did required destroying the stock truck. Most often the coupler mount needed to be trimmed off with a dremel or removed by drilling out rivets. On a car with little underbody detail parts. You might get away with removing the coupler and reversing the truck on the chassis. Most often the coupler mount will interfere with the Kadee box.
I had a large fleet to do once I decided to go this route. Certainly not a weekend project. I do like uncoupling by hand as I never se