Any suggestions or comments on the best way to install weight on pilot trucks and/or trailing trucks. What do you use, how do you do it? thanks
Lead is the stuff to use. It packs more weight into less size than anything short of depleted uranium. I have sheet lead, used for roof flashing. I cut it with scissors, and pack as much as possible on the pilot and trailing trucks as I can. Hold the lead in place with silicone bathtub caulk. Pickle the lead in vinegar for a few minutes to degrease it and rough up the surface to give the caulk some tooth to grab onto.
Well, no. Tungsten is 70% denser than lead. And it is denser than uranium.
But if I run into lead and trailing truck tracking problems, I repair/correct the truck. Or the track. i’ve never found the need to add weight. Or springs. In fact, I tend to remove the springs.
Ed
Agreed, if the wheels are in spec just let them flop around they are just there for show.
Harold
In my experience, when gauge and obstructions are not the problem, and where the curve radius is well-established and safe, it is uneven rails. The truck frame is being lifted or tilted just enough by the drivers’ actions that the flanges on the truck wheels can’t keep the axles on the rails. Out it comes.
Crandell
Lead sheet is a good solution. You can cut it, bend it, shape it.
The biggest problem is not to let the lead sheet interference with the performance of the truck.
But, sometimes, that added weight is needed to keep the wheels on the rails.
Rich
Bowser used a round lead lead weight on its trailing axles for many of its locomotives. Here is a single axle version on ebay. I have a couple of 4-8-4 s with weights on both trailing axles.
Depending on the trailing truck design, this may be an option.
[!(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Truck-2-Wheel-weighted-trailing-truck-for-Bowser-K11-Northern-Others-/00/s/Njk2WDEwMjQ=/z/FOIAAMXQfFJRKCIt/$(KGrHqV,!oUFE(3ydblOBRKCIsoMwQ~~60_57.JPG)](http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Truck-2-Wheel-weighted-trailing-truck-for-Bowser-K11-Northern-Others-/00/s/Njk2WDEwMjQ=/z/FOIAAMXQfFJRKCIt/$(KGrHqV,!oUFE(3ydblOBRKCIsoMwQ~~60_57.JPG)
One hopes to achieve the ideal set-up on trucks and avoid weighting, but sometimes that’s the easiest solution and it works. It’s also more reversible than some “fixes” – having torn up up at least one trying to do so. Some of us lead less than perfect lives[}:)]
Weight tends to help more with trailing trucks. I’ve got a lead truck on a Sunset K-28 that I’m working on right now. It’s got plenty of weight, but the plastic wheelset I’ve got in it do to the original disassembling itself is sketchy. So one tip is try for original parts if possible, if yours have been “repaired” out of function.[swg]
You can get titanium weighting stuff at your local Pine Wood Derby display in most arts and crafts stores. Lead sheet is a good ol’ stand-by, too, just wash your hands and don’t lick it. I use epoxy to get 'em to stick as needed.
Obviously, try careful adjustment first, but sometimes a little weight will do ya!
Sporting goods stores sell lead wire in the fly- tying department. I wrap it around the axle on troublesome wheel sets as an easy way to add weight.