I have an insulated track set up properly, I believe, to trip a banjo signal. When I apply power to the track the banjo signal lights up and moves more rapidly with the increase in voltage. What can I check to see what is going awry? I can see no contact between the insulated rail and the regular track.
Have you used a meter to ensure there is no continuity? A worn spot under the rail may not be visible.
How does one do that?
What track are you using? O or O27 did you remove the one rail from the ties and put thin cardboard under the rail where it attaches to the ties? Otherwise the ties are sending power to your rail you issolated with issolation pins.
one outside rail needs to have little pieces of cardboard like the center rail does.
Smokey1, I did all that on my 027 track.
Need pictures of your insulated rail and fiber/plastic pin placement. So far, it sounds like the tie crimps have cut through your insulation material used to isolate the trigger rail when you fastened the rail back down.
Sadly, I cannot upload photos. It does seem to me that there is a connection between my main track and my insulated track that should not be there. I will explore that possibility in the morning. Thanks to all who responded.
Set your VOM for Continuity (Ohms), and touch one probe to each outside rail. If the meter registers anything at all, there is contact between the “insulated” rail and the ties, so it’s not really insulated.
I ask one more question: what about the insulated rail pins? Any chance the rails are toucing despite the plastic pins?
Well, let’s go at another angle then.
- How many track sections long is your insulated trip zone?
- How many fiber pins are you using in the insulated rail, the non-insulated rail, and the center rail and where did you locate them?
- How many fiber pins are you using in the insulated rail, the non-insulated rail, and the center rail and where did you locate them?
- What type of insulating material did you use for the outside rail and how long are the insulators?
- How did you re-stake the ties to the rails?
- Where do you have your electrical connections made?
- Are you using Lockons? Where?
- Have you done anything to confirm that your rail is actually insulated?
ADCXRob, there is one track section used to trip the banjo signal. Wires from the banjo signal are soldered to the center and outside rail of that track. The soldered outside rail is the one with the insulating pins. They are Lionel brand O27 pins and about 1/4" long. I used the cardboard insulators from an old piece of O27 track for the insulated rail. I cannot see any place where the isulated rail is touching anything it shouldn’t.
The center rail and second outside rail have their original metal pins.
There are no lockons on my modest 9x10 L shaped layout.
You might not be able to see the places where the rails touch the ties through the insulators. That’s why I recommend the meter test. And press down on the rails as you test: there have been cases when the rail wasn’t touching the tie without the weight of a train on it.
Take that one piece out of the layout leaving the banjo connected. Connect a Lockon to the center rail and outside rail opposite the insulated rail and power it up with a transformer.
Does the banjo still operate w/o a train on the track?
ADCXRob, your experiment does light up the banjo signal leading my electrically challenged self to concur that there is a connection being made despite the insulated track pins and rail. Pallalin, I am going to add electrical tape to the cardboard insulators because there is obviously a connection being made that should not be there.
The original insulators are made of industrial fishpaper and are usually quite robust, until they are cut by the tie crimps. If you look closely, the center rail crimps on O27 track are slightly different to prevent this from happening.