I purchased some plastic and metal ME rail joiners. The guy at Caboose hobbies said that you want to match the joiners with the track manufacturer (Atlas-Atlas, ME-ME, etc.). Is that true or did I just waste money buying all ME (track and joiners)? I went w/ ME because I read it looks more realistic and can get purchased already weathered!
I use Atlas N joiners on Atlas HO code 83 track. Takes a little more work, but I can’t stand the look of those big, ugly HO joiners.[xx(] I’m sure many brands will interchange with a little bit of effort.
The different manufacturers use different cross sections of rail. ME uses closer to prototypical cross sections, so the base and web are much thinner. Atlas uses a very heavy cross section so the base and especially the web of the rail is much thicker. ME or Peco rail joiners dont work so well on Altas track. I have had good luck with Atlas N scale rail joiners on HO Atlas code 83 track.
I use almost any joiner for any type of track as long as its tight and looks good. BUT, code 83 joiners for 83 track etc. I DON’T use Atlas joiners because they are too big. I also solder all of my track joints and then cut gaps with a Dremel tool where I need them. By soldering, once they are lined up and soldered, they don’t shift and cause problems. Just the way I do things, and it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.
How much harder is it to push the N scale joiners onto Atlas Code 83 HO track? Just a bit more of a push or
is it a bit of “a bear” using needle nose pliers, etc.?
I took a scrap piece of Atlas rail and tapered the end a little with a needle file. I will put the rail joiner on that first to “size” it and then it goes on the regular rail easily. Normally I do that only joiners that will go on the ends of switches, because the rest of the track is flex track adn typically I’m trimming it anyway so I relieve the corners of the rail end when I clean it up after cutting it.