After a disastrous experience with CA glue I decided to stick this piece back onto the model with the Microscale Krystal Klear product.
Works very well to stick the flimsy etched metal grill back where it belongs. Not only does it form a strong bond with very little glue it dries completely clear so does not mess up the appearance of the grille.
CA is vastly over rated for model making.
In the end I removed the grille entirely because the rear end had curled. Straightening the metal was much easier with the whole grille off the model.
Applied glue sparingly to all the original attachment points (CA residue everywhere, not all applied by me but all ultimately useless as an adhesive for this purpose), careful aligned and placed the grille and, using wax paper and a wooden tongue depresser to spread clamping force more evenly I applied light clamping pressure with a set of three mini vice grip brand pistol grip bar clamps. These came as a set of four and are very useful. They are very small versions of the more familiar carpentry sized bar clamps. These use a pistol grip infinite ratchet to close and a trigger release of clamping pressure. Clever and very handy design.
Good advice, I use lots of different adhesives, but I use very little CA, I too find it ineffective and hard to work with in many cases.
Sheldon
I agree with both you and Sheldon on the merits of various “PVA” canopy cement type adhesives. I brought up the various ways I like to use it in past threads but the majority pretty much shut me down saying Super Glue was the way to go.
I like to use canopy cement for gluing hand rails, grab irons, clear acetates, acrylics and styrene. I have also found it very effective in uses like yours and have also used it for securing etched brass or stainless pieces to finished carbodies and structures.
I have maybe six different “formulations” of PVA and each one has slightly different properties. Some dry nearlt crystal clear, stay flexible and grip both metal, painted or bare plastic, plaster, wood, EVA foam and several other substrates.
http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-few-words-in-praise-of-canopy-glue.html
I will use ACC when and where appropriate, but only if I have to. Which is not very often, thankfully.
Good Luck, Ed
My only FP-7 in this gorgeous Overland brass model. The big selling point was that those stainless steel grilles are securely fastened into place already. That feature was worth the purchase price all by itself.
I have two Stewart/Kato F7 models. Someday I will need to figure out how to attach the Detail Associates grilles I have for them.
-Kevin
Kevin,
Will you remove them to paint the engine?
Regards, Ed
I took note of Rapido’s recommendation to use “white glue” (PVA) to re-attach plastic to plastic detail parts. Solvent cements have drawbacks. Much hobby work does not require use of strong adhesives.
I will not.
There is just mostly empty space behind them, but the support pillars are bare brass. I will see how it looks once it is painted.
Hopefully it will be OK.
This will give better results.
-Kevin
That’s what I use for crystal cement on pocket watches.
There is a PDF user guide for G-S Hypo Cement available for download.
One note: if using this for any protracted time, instead of putting the little wire in and out and in and out, you can stand the tube upended in a small bottle or similar container, and put a little sponge soaked in IPA over the nozzle between ‘shots’. If you set it down without the pin inserted it tends to dribble…
And ALWAYS clean the tip with a little solvent before you go to put the cap back on!