Is it worth it?

Garden Railroading
1

I know I have gone compleatly insane in asking this but, should I try to build this monstrosity? More importanitly what will I use it (them) for? (incert evil laugh here)…

1891. 0-10-0 TANK
WHEN this engine was delivered by the Baldwin Works to the St. Clair Tunnel Company in 1891, it was the heaviest locomotive in the world. It was designed to haul heavy freight trains through the new tunnel under the St. Clair River between Sarnia, Ontario, and Port Huron, Michigan. This bore was 6,000 feet long with approach grades of 1,950 and 2,500 feet respectively, or an average of 105 feet to the mile. The engine was well designed, all of its weight being available for traction. All wheels with the exception of the center pair were flanged and had brakes. Hard coal was used as fuel.

Cylinders 22 by 28 inches Weight 195,000 pounds Drivers 50 inches in diameter Total wheelbase 18 feet 5 inches Tank capacity 1,800 gallons, 3 tons fuel Tractive force 58,000 pounds

and …

1863. THE PENNSYLVANIA
THE first engine to be built with six pairs of driving wheels was the Pennsylvania, designed by James Milholland and completed at the Philadelphia & Reading Shops in 1863. It was intended and used for pusher service, particularly in handling coal trains over the summit of the hills between the Schuylkill and Delaware Rivers.

Though originally both fuel and water were carried on the engine, when it was rebuilt in 1870, with the rear pair of drivers omitted, a separate tender was attached. The principal reason for its being modified was because it had difficulty in negotiating curves, some of which were as short as 320-foot radius. It was so powerful that it was destructive to the light ca

2

I say build it, why not? It’ll give you something to do over the winter.

3

I too second the suggestion -go for it!!! The camel back is one locomotive missing from my collection, as I prefer articulated locos. You will need to arrange for someone to do the “maths” for the driver offsets though. Remember that your wheels are going to have to move side to side when cornering. You will have to work out how much each axles slides for your curves. i.e. +/- 5mm, +/- 3.5mm, +/- 1.5mm, 0. etc!! regards ralph

4

Total build the drivers and all below? Or just build top with help from other 1/2 pre made drivers on bottom?

5

Oh, absolutely it’s worth it! Those are two great prototypes, and bound to be conversation pieces. Both would be a challenge, to be sure, but it wouldn’t be too difficult to do. The hardest part would be the frames. Suitable drivers can be found for both. For the 43" drivers, I’d use the Bachmann industrial mogul as a source. The 50" drivers could be built with drivers from an LGB mogul or from Hartland Locomotive Works. (1 3/4" dia.)

As Ralph alludes, the most difficult part would be the frame, and making sure the wheels have enough side-to-side play to go around your curves. Once that’s figured out, the rest is easy.[swg]

Later,

K

6

Those look like some VERY intrestesting projects. I would build the first one with brass.