I have wondered what would happen if an engine were painted over without stripping off the original paint. I’m going to repaint a Kato N scale Pennsylvania E-8 into a B&O E-8. The paint scheme is the dark blue with a yellow stripe. Because the blue is such a dark blue, I don’t see how the older decorations would bleed through. I will be using enamel paint. Of couse I’ll take off the horns, details etc. Anyone see any potential problems?
In general there’s no reason that you can’t paint directly over the original factory paint. Do test in some unobtrusive area that the new paint won’t attack the old paint though.
However, it’s not considered good painting practice for several reasons:
The previous decorations won’t “bleed” through, but will show as a “shadow” as they are printed on top of the original paint adding thickness.
The new coat(s) of paint will add “thickness” and can obscure details.
Painting over a dark surface will require more coats adding again more thickness further obscuring details.
If you can live with the above, by all means go ahead. I would recommend that you prime the model with a coat of light grey first to get a neutral even color as a starting point.
the lettering might show through, otherwise it will probably work. If you don’t take the lettering off, there will be raised spots where the lettering is.
Matthew
I would remove the lettering, any stripes and the herald with a fine sandpaper. Otherwise the outlines of any markings will show through. That should leave the engine totally brunswick green. You shouldn’t have any problem with the B&O blue over the green.
Bob DeWoody
these guys are right about the lettering. Walmart sell a high buil primer in a spray can that shoulds cover up the decals and lines of the loco. the lighter the sandpaper you use the smouther it will be . you might have to do two cotes on it just to be safe.
Derrick
Well guys I agree with you on most of it, but if we are talking about plastic body shells I’m not so sure sanding is a good idea. He would need to be very careful not to remove any of the details of the body.
I have painted a few locos and didn’t strip them, if you look close at one of my SD-9’s you can still see some of the Sante fe letters under the SP paint but it’s not obvious to the to the average Joe. Just like in most detailing the 3 foot rule is something to consider.
Solvent base Floequil will cover in one airbrushed coat. The previous lettering/ striping edges may show, but only under the right angle of viewing. Since it is N scale you may not notice it at all. I paint B&O and Chessie, both of these schemes have been sucsessfully painted over existing paint. For the best results, though, try to remove the lettering w/ Pine Sol. Even if the majority of the existing is removed, you will be happier with the outcome of your hard work.
Bob K.
Well its always good practice to remove existing paint before repainting. It’s much easier to do it the first time than to find out its a mess and have to remove the new and older paint.
And with N scale details being so small, extra paint will only hide them all the more.
It’s your call - the easy way or the right way.
Bob Boudreau
Thanks for all of the replies. I’ll try stripping the engine tomorrow, but if the old paint is too difficult to remove, I’ll remove what I can and paint over the rest. I don’t want to let the body shell soak for a long time. If it gets damaged then I’ll really be in a pickle. Atlas body shells are readily available. Does anyone know about the availability of Kato body shells? Thanks again!
Kato shells are sometimes available, and very expensive.
Read the various warnings on stripping Kato, on this and other forums.
Well I went middle of the road. I stripped off the old decals but was concerned because it seemed to start effecting the plastic so I left it at that. I painted over the existing paint minus the decals and it seemed to workout fine.