I finally hooked up (Thanks To Simon 1966) my Digitrax PR 3 (computer interface) to my Digitrax Super Empire Builder and the computer using the JMRI Decoder Pro Program.
If you are running DCC I would strongly suggest getting a computer interfaces and use Decoder Pro in for nothing else for programing decoders.
One of the side benefits of JMRI it has built in throttles so when hooked up to your computer you can control the trains from the computer! So when guest stop by and you only have 1 or 2 throttles you can use the computer as one as well.
One of the reasons I wanted the extra throttles is I have two main lines and a branch line. Now instead of pushing buttons to get control of a engine, just a simple click of the mouse and I am in control. This is very useful with sound engines!
In my case a extra none full feature throttle would have cost me around $40.00. I prefer my DH 400 which is $140.00 plus. Now I can have a throttle for all 21 engines and the cost was only $70.00 with the PR3 power supply.
How computer literate do you have to be to do a hookup and program JMRI? I ask because a guy at the club is supposed to help me do this but it’s been around 3 weeks and our schedules have not meshed up yet. As you probably know I am not very computer literate. I don’t need it as a throttle but want to use it as a stand alone programmer independent of the layout.
Another cool feature is the smartphone control (Wifi Throttle). With an Iphone/IPad/IPod or Android smartphone you can control trains as well as long as the phones and computer share an internet access point.
Curt, once it is setup it is very easy to use. Getting it setup might be a bit of a challenge.
First you have to make sure that the USB drivers for the PR3 install correctly and that the COM port is correctly assigned by Windows. The PR3 has an installation disk for this. Sometimes it is not obvious which COM port has been assigned, so you need to know how to use device manager to find out.
Then you have to download and install the Decoder Pro application. This may also involve downloading and installing Java.
Once this is done, then it is just a case of correctly configuring Decoder Pro for the PR3 with the correct COM port.
So, in truth there is a level of computer literacy needed to get this installed correctly and running.
I just finally got my DecoderPro up and running in the last few days. I programmed 3 locos so far. I agree with what Simon said. I kept having this and that false start, but finally got it to work–all my fault, if you’re wondering.
BUT, it is, as the young set say, way cool.
I did download and print the instruction book. Reading screens just doesn’t work as well when I’m trying to puzzle things out. It’ll also be useful when you want to do the programming. I’ve had to use the book each time, so far. But each time, it gets a little more comfortable.
When using the PR3 it is important to realize that it is really 2 devices inside the same enclosure. The way that JMRI is configured will be determined by how you are going to use it. It is either a stand alone programming environment, or it is a PC interface to a DIgitrax command station. As I showed Cuda Ken today, you have to switch the settings in Decoder Pro back and forth if you want to use it in both ways. In Kens case he does, because when used as a stand alone program track he can read CV’s, but when connected to his DB150 Super Empire Builder command station it can not read CV’s because it is constrained by the limitation of the command station. Anyway, this was one of the bits tripping Ken up as he tried to get it working.
Is there anything like the PR3 that is NCE-specific?
Reason I ask is one of my operating buddies was over the other night to run some trains and was jibing me about JMRI again. He’s a Digitrax guy, so if there’s no easy way to NCE it, I’ll get some temporary relief…
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Really Decoder Pro is the schinitz and I could use it, just too busy with other stuff to let it rise up the priority list. After that, well narrowgauge ops are pretty relaxed anyway, so doubt I’ll get much use of all the whiz-bang features, but a couple of extra throttles could be cool.
I’m Digitrax as well, but I know from reading on here and on the JMRI web site that NCE has PC interface capability on both the PowerHouse and the PowerCab. Take a look at this link, it will most likely answer your specific questions about your system.
NCE systems like the Power House Pro have a serial port on them - You need a Serial/USB adapter as described in the JMRI documentation.
The NCE Power Cab needs the NCE USB adapter. I have heard that the USB adapter might work on some of the larger NCE systems with limitations.
I would join the JMRI Yahoo Group - Lots of good info on setup there. No need to re-invent the world!
I have been using Decoder Pro for a number of years, and I have installed it on the club’s computer. A lot of folks shy away from the computer - One guy has pages of printed instruction on how to just set the address and other basic stuff from his throttle. When he gets frustrated, I just RESET his decoder and program the engine in less than a minute. I always add his engines to the Decoder Pro ‘Roster’ so I can ‘re-load’ his decoder after he has made a mistake ‘pressing buttons’…
Jim just hit a on very good point about Decoder Pro. You can save all of a decoders settings in a file. If you hit the wrong program button on the main line and change some CV’s in a engine you did not want to! All you have to do is sit it on the program track, open the file and rewrite the CV’s.
to connect the computer to the NCE Power Pro. This thingy won’t connect directly to the Power Pro. You’ll also need a straight through serial cable male-female. I didn’t know this fact last Sunday when I was ready to start programing. But the local Radio Shack was open and had one. Surprisingly. Thingy comes with a CD that you’ll load into your computer. It all worked quite well once my little brain figured it out.
All you need to do is set up the preferences in DecoderPro for the PR3 in stand-alone programmer mode, and set up the preferences in PanelPro for the PR3 in MS100 (LocoNet) mode. Then you just click on the proper icon for whichever function you want to use.
Or, you can get fancy and create multiple preference files and startup scripts.
For example, you might use Digitrax with a PR3 at home and have it set up as outlined above.
Then for the NCE PowerPro system running the club layout you could build a third preference file and startup script for PanelPro, and a fourth one for the Powercab with the NCE USB adapter that’s used for programming at the club.
You’d just click on the icon for whichever of the four connection types/systems you plan to use.
More info on JMRI startup scripts is located here.
My standard answer would be that if you can figure out how to work your home computer and get online and sign up for the forum, you’re computer-savvy enough to do Decoder Pro.
Good point Stevert, I had not thought of that, but its not all that hard to switch back and forth. The main point I was making was that the PR3 is really 2 devices in one box and one needs to be aware of the different settings to make it work.
I think we will skip start up scripts, there is no way that’s going to work for Cuda!!
I would agree that once it is up and running it is trivial. I have seen more than enough folks get tied up with the USB driver installation and selection to know that the initial setup can be a challenge, especially to anyone that is not comfortable with Device Manager.
I like the Decoder Pro a lot and have used it for about 3 years. We use the LocoBuffer USB to interface our computer to the Digitrax DCS200 Super Chief with the LAN. Very easy to set up and works with a variety of DCC systems.
Just as a minor point, it does not require a “modern” computer to run the JMRI program. The computer I have in the basement has Windows XP and a serial port output. So if you have one of those, all you need to connect to the Power House Pro is a serial cable. No adapter is required.
Just a little up date. I have been running the computer throttles for about a week now. Two things I do not like.
1 Have not found away to make the cab / throttles a little smaller.
2 When you slide the speed control up, it does not increase the speed of the engine till you let go of the mouse. Now, if you put your pointer on the speed control and single click it it increases the power 1 speed step at a time. That pretty [8D] in it’s own right!
What I love about using it!
1 Simple click and you have control of the engine.
2 F Buttons work great every time! Even when it was new, my DH 400 buttons like to stick. I have sent it back to Digitrax 2 times and they never fixed it.
Only time I use the DH 400 is when I go to to the layout to clean wheels or throw turnouts.