This will be my first post here and if I am doing that in the wrong place, please feel free to relocate it.
I am very new to this hobby. In fact I am so new that I haven’t really started anything yet other than my reading and research about it. I don’t have a good space for anything right now, but in the future I believe I will have approx 55 to 65 square feet within a small 10.5 x 10.5 room to work with, depending upon the layout design. With N-scale I think that would be a decent sized space. Fortunately I do not have that space available now. I say fortunately, because this forces me to wait, be patient and learn. I have no doubt that what I think I want to do now will probably change before I start anything.
So far I believe I have a working understanding of track radius and the need to keep that as large as possible for the longer engines and cars. I have also been reading about grade and how a good number to shoot for on a main line is 2%, especially if that mixes with curves. I have also been looking at the different types of track and how for me, I am thinking that the Kato Unitrack may be the way to go. Along with that I have researched how to weather it to bring it more in line with some of the other track that looks more realistic. I have also looked into the electrical aspects and intricacies of the wiring needed. Why Unitrack? From a new persons perspective it appears nearly bulletproof from what I have read. It has great conductivity, quality metal in the rails with reduced maintenance over the long term, everything will run on it and it can be modified to suit, even flex. But, as I learn more this all could change.
I have also researched creating the benchwork and different methods that may be best suited to my
Welcome to the forums and the hobby. Like you, I was an armchair model railroader" for quite a while and the time I spent reading and listening served me very well. I think that the most important thing for you to consider is what you want your railroad to do, what time frame it is in and the location. This will help with your selection of motive power and rolling stock as well as scenic considerations. One of the pitfalls that newer folks run into is trying to do too much too soon. Take your time and enjoy the ride.
Up to 65 sqft. is quite a lot for an N scale layout - certainly enough to build something which is rewarding to operate and look at. Kato Unitrack is a good choice if you want easy to install and bullet proof track and switches. With a little care and effortr, you can improve the looks of the track quite a lot-
IIRC, one of MR´s project layout called “The Salt Lake Route” featured Kato Unitrack. Nice layout with a nice track plan to boot!
That is what I have been thinking about. As I mentioned in my opening post I don’t have a favorite time, or place. I have an interest in all of it, diesel and steam right now. So, I wanted to be able to somehow create a very generic, yet realistic looking world so no matter what was running, it would not look so out of place being there.
If I eventually do this I want to be able to grow into the design in case I start to favor a particular time and place in the future. So, what I begin with should not be too difficult to transition into something more specific. For example: I don’t know a lot about switch yard operation and don’t think I would dedicate a lot of time there, but I may very well get much more interested in that in the future. So, whatever yard I eventually draw up, I would want it to be able to satisfy a yard mans full interest in that.
You seem to be taking a good thoughtful approach to the whole thing which is healthy. Just remember that no law says that first layout has to be a forever layout, and no law says the entire 65 sq ft has to be packed with track and benchwork.
Your railroading interests sound like you are interested in quite a bit of scenic variation - wood trestles spanning creeks and valleys and such. That is turn suggests that the usual stereotyped sheet of plywood table top might not be the best thing. Something more like the L girder system where there is roadbed only where the tracks are and in between is empty space if you want it.
In my case I was thinking of a more flat-land sort of terrain and the David Barrow “domino” approach made sense for me. Even before I had scribbled the first bit of track plan on paper I built a few of the domino tables, each 2x4 feet using sheets of 1/2" plywood “handi-panels” from the big box home store: Why? I could fit them in my car!
I assume you have read about the various types of layouts. For your planned space I would suggest an around the room shelf. If you had an 18" shelf you could even have a penninsula up to 2’ wide and still leave you 30" aisles, which are usually doable. If you prefer wider aisles you could make either the shelf, penninsula or both a bit narrower. If you choose to make the penninsula narrower you could still leave a blob at the end to give you a 2’ wide space where you could use up to 20" radius, plenty in N, if you are concerned about radius.
Remember it’s your layout, if you want to pull modern double stacks with steam, do it. Have what you like.
Like others have said you are taking a very reasoned approach to building your layout. Your research has already prevented you from suffering the common pitfalls of excessive grades and tight radii to name a few.
I was interested in your comment about possibly developing an interest in yard operations in the future. If you haven’t already seen it, there is an excellent reference book by John Armstrong called “Track Planning for Realistic Operation”. Kalmbach sells it but it can usually be had for less on eBay or Amazon. The book covers many operational issues but I personally found the part on building a functional yard to be very helpful. Like many novices I had designed the ‘perfect’ track plan including a yard. However, reading Armstrong’s book proved to be a real eye opener. My ‘perfect’ yard was anything but. In fact, it would have been nearly impossible to do anything realistic except park freight cars by hand.
There are lots of useful chapters on a host of other operations too. I strongly recommend investing in it.
I was planning for an around the room shelf layout with a peninsula. The entrance to the room is double French style doors, which also takes up a lot of floor space, and the one wall is a large closet with double bi-fold doors. So, I only have two walls to work with, but that gives me two good options on where and how that peninsula can be located condidering approx. 30" wide isles. One would be 3.5’ wide and the other right at 4’. Also, I can use part of that closet to hide a return loop back into the room. In a few days I will post my preliminary thoughts and drawings of both options.
I think my second plan of attack will be to rough in how just the mains could run on each scenario. This would also show all the other available space and the sort of options that will bring. I am sure that each one will have it’s merits.
By the way, I have been doing a good bit more reading and viewing about track options. I am now leaning toward Atlas code 55.
Dave
That is good advise and I plan on doing a lot of forum interaction before taking any leaps in any one direction. With the wealth of information here there is no need for anyone to reinvent the wheel, so to speak.