Just made my first engine purchase in 15 years. I bought a Proto 2000 GP9 Phase One with DCC n Sound. I took it to the club layout and fired it up. Other members were quite impressed with all the sound features, its smooth drive at low speeds and its decent pulling capacity. I’m wondering if anyone else has this engine and can provided feedback on any problems they might have encountered with this engine, break in tips, or other maintenance related issues. If you just want to coment on this engine models pro’s and cons feel free…
Great locomotive, can handle 39 empty 2-bay hoppers on the flat. I’ve got one in C&O and I want 3 more!
The only problem I had with mine and my Super Chief DCC was changing directions while the loco was moving. It would cut out and reset. Apparently they all do that. I finally went in and changed my settings on the Command station and now it works fine. I thought the horn was a little tinny sounding but of course I have never heard the prototype. Overall geat loco.
Terry
I had the same problem on the club layout - It would do a reset on the booster(DCS100) when I reversed direction. I adjusted the PM42’s trip faster, and reset the CV in the DCS100 from 1/8 sec to 1/2 sec per Digitrax tech support - No problems now.
Jim
Jim,
Please explain step by step how you did this. I have two P2K Geeps w/sound that do this also - as well as two Broadway Limited switchers. I’m assuming all four suffer from the same CV problem. I’m using a Digitrax Radio Super Chief. Thanks for the help!
The easiest fix is to put a small, non-zero number in CV03 and CV04 to give a little stop and start momentum. Or don’t change direction without stopping [:D]
I have REALLY been trying to resist buying a few of the GP9’s, since they don’t make my road name - which lucky for me didn’t have any GP9’s. BUT the bod shells from the GP7’s I have apparantly WILL fit over the sound unit chassis… must…not…buy!
Maybe when Trainworld has a closeout on some really odd road names that no one wants…
–Randy
Hey! I ve got a pair of LL GP7’s I was going to convert to DCCand I would like to find a dummy to go between then filled with sound a la Joe Fugate. I do GN from '47-'50 and the 9’s didn’t come out till '54. But you say the 7 shells will fit? Hmmm!
I just picked up a couple last week or so. 1 no sound CB&Q and 1 BN with sound. My goal was to find a CB&Q w/ sound, but I couldnt. I swapped the shells and now I am debating keeping the no-sound BN. I love the locomotive, nice and smooth. The only problem I ran into (and this is probably cuz I am a newb w/ DCC is I accidentally it function 6 or something and turned off the motor so only the sound would work. The LL manual did the trick to get it working again.
This is what I am given to understand. You might have to cut the crew figures out. I take mine out anyway, they’re facing the wrong way fro Reading anyway.
Should these ever hit closeout - like the $129 PRR M1a - it’s the easiest and cheapest way to get good sound - when you figure the cost of a good sound decoder with motor control, the speakers, and your time.
–Randy
My P2K U.P GP-9 with dcc/sound is one of my top 5 locos. I have over 350 locos from MANY different manufacturers(no brass).
My only con on that locomotive is that the prime mover (diesel) sound. It sounds more like like a 645 to me instead of a 576C. The GP38 is the first loco new from from the factory with a second generation engine in it.
Well, the only external difference between a 7 and 9 (besides the little builders plate) is a few louvers. The GP7 has three sets under the cab, while the GP9 has two sets under the radiator shutters. If you are repainting anyway it is a simple change to scrape the wrong set off and scribe the new set in.
But when you start getting into the trade-in programs (e.g. GP7M) all bets are off. This would be, among others, GN locos #900-915.
Source: “Diesel Spotters Guide” by Pinkepank.