Hello,
I’m trying to get into a garden layout.
I have not purchased any track yet.
What should I go with… aluminium,brass or stainless?
Should I use sectional or flex.
I want to keep it simple and will go to battery power at a later date.
Aristo 0-4-0 and a LGB Porter is what 'll be running.
Thanks for any and all help
Chuck
Chico, CA
Chuck,
Stainless Steel is probably the best, but I’m not sure wheather it’s oxide is conductive. Nickle Silver is the best conductor and it’s oxide is supposed to be a good conductor. Brass is a good conductor and is more reasonably priced but oxidizes quickly. Aluminum is the cheapest. The fewer joints the better, so flextrack is probably a better choice than short lengths sectional track.
Walt
Hello Chuck,
Tricky one really.Believe me ,you will get some various answers here but here is my view based on what I’ve used.
I run with track power and it is all brass.Even after not using the layout for a month I can still have trains running after 10 minutes.Sectional track is not a problem as long as the rail continuity is maintained (either by well joined fishplates (connectors ) or added flyleads.)You may think that the connectors are fine,but leave it out in the garden for a few years and you will find how dirt can break the connection!
I like flexitrack and have a fair bit but the price of it in the UK makes it an expensive option.I hate to say this but go for large curves even though you are thinking of running small trains at the moment.My layout is about to be rebuilt in 2 weeks as I have been using 4 foot curves which are great for my locos but when my Father brings his down to play they won’t go round.I learnt the hard way!
I am going to try Aristocraft track.I hope it works as I’ve put in a big order.
Troy
Since you’re going to use battery power, track conductivity is not something that even needs to be considered. I run only battery power, and use AristoCraft track simply because I wanted #6 turnouts and they were the only ones available at the time. The turnouts I have are stainless steel, as are all of the curved sectional track I used. I have Aristo 5-foot sectional brass for straight sections because stainless was not available – but now that I run only battery power I could have gotten by with all brass. Either way, I have not had any corrosion with either type of rail in the dry Arizona climate, and could have saved money by using brass rail.
Avoid Bachmann aluminum track – it is hollow and not very durable. Aristo track is solid rail and the sections screw together. Rail clamps will not be necessary with battery power.
Chuck, welcome to the forum,
A bit more info please…how big of a layout are you thinking?
I really dont know why every knocks brass track, stainless to me is just more money. Makes sense if you are going to hand lay track and scratchbuilt all your switches, and operate track power, but for a eventual battery oped layout? Its just money down the rabbit hole.
Keep it simple to start, a loop with an LGB powerpack and then switch to battery when you can afford to convert one engine, then the other. Once you are completely battery oped, then add switches, reverse loops, passing sidings, etc. with Battery power you can ignore all the hellish wiring cunundrums that come up trying to do track power to a large outdoor layout. Just lay track and forget it.
Flex track is really best for large spread out layouts, the rails are in 5 foot lenths and needs a $100 rail bender to make curves.
A more compact layout is better served using sectional track, its cheaper in the long run and easier to work with.
How wide are the curves going to be?
With the locos described the standard R1 4 foot diameter curves work well, but I would recommend if your outside and have the room, use 6 foot MINIMUM diameter, and 8 foot diameter is more preferable. Almost every new item coming out (DASH-9, PA-1, Pacific, Connie, Heisler, etc) is being designed the 8’ diameter curve, and most older stuff (GP-9, FA-1, F-3, Annie, etc) will work with the 6’ diameter track. So if you have the room, Go Big with the curves you wont regret it later.
If on the otherhand you dont have the room for the big curves, dont be put off by the 4’ diameter stuff. Thats what I use, along with LGB 1200 swithces. I also use the LGB Porters, Bachmann Porters, MDC Hustlers, and they are all great on the small radius stuff, just plan on using 20’ or smaller cars and shorty Sierra type passenger cars.
Brass is the only way to go, unless youhave good reason to do otherwise. Think about conductivity and getting hardware for points (switches). I use our clubs rail and LGB points, as they are the only ones to work reliably or so i have found. As you get into electric operation LGB push pull action, leaves the rest for dead. i would not use less than R3.
ie why reinvent the wheel nealry evrey one uses Aristo or LGB and for good reason.
Rgs
Ian
Hi Chuck,
Aristo track is the one, reasonable price, good quality brass and lots of different curved radii. My only moan about it is if I handle it wrong the tie pulls away from the track very easily - especially in hot weather. It only takes seconds to fix , but it’s annoying. When laying the track keep your stack in the shade. As advised, 8’ is the minimum curve but this leads us into an old discussion about where are manufacturers going with their products, install the biggest curves you can.
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]
Hi Chuck,
I use all LGB brass here. When building your layout you never know for sure what you may want to run later on. That is why we all recommend using as large a diameter curve as you can. This way running the big ones won’t look silly since on a tight curve it will hang over…looks unrealistic. Enjoy the forum! The only dumb question you will have is the one you don’t ask! We all started somewhere! Later eh…Brian.
I’m kunfused… what do you mean about the ties coming off the rails? Won’t they do the same out in the 100+ degree tempature when the trains run on them?
I have quite a bit of room so 8’ is OK with me
If I use flex track, do I have to buy a bender or has someone got another idea?
As you can tell, I sure don’t know much 
Last question… do you buy the rails and ties from the same manufacture or is there a “standard” that everyone uses ??
Thanks,
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
This little problem is one that I only have when handling the track, when it’s down it’s fine. I don’t know about everyone but I bolt together the track sections at my garden table before I carry the track to its place and as a result there’s a bit of weight in it. It’s at this time that the seperation can happen if I hold the track wrong. If the track has been lying in the sun before I put it together then it makes the plastic just that bit softer. Not a biggie but it does make me !!%**??"!.
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]
I only use the ready made set track so over to you guys for flexi track/llay your own/track benders.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ja_sabo/my_photos
Heres my 2 cents
i am using aristo track (brass) 3 foot sec and 5 foot dia. and decided to use LGB switches.As you can see i also just started and went thru the same questions, IMHO i believe the ariso is the best and most economical way to go.Good luck and just do it 
Jeff
I am using Aristo track and switches and am very happy with them so far . Even though my railroad is relativly new I was running trains in my basement all winter. The track is sectional 20’ diameter brass and have had no problems . Like everyone says go with the biggest curve you can . Good luck and have fun!