NCE mentions in the manual with the older systems you will need a booster for the program track but stated my system should be OK. Though in the same manual they stated the Amps to the Programming Track are far less than the Amps to the layout track (seperate outlets). Really need to get an Amp meter to see what is going on. However before I buy the booster I am going to try a better wiring option to make sure.
Why did I get a 5 AMP system for such a small layout? Couple of reasons, todays HO Scale trains are drawing more power from the rails. I have a full Superliner Set that is lighted, BLI CZ set that is lighted, will be using Bachmans EOT flasher, etc. Second reason is this is probably not my last train layout and the benchwork was specifically engineered so that I could break down and move it to a new house without massive destruction of scenary and/or track dislocation. So this track layout could form the core of a future track layout that is larger.
In fact the consultants that built the benchwork being model railroaders themselves suggested I punch a hole through the drywall into bedroom #4 and use part of that space for the layout as well as punch a hole into the large walkin closet for staging yard space (or remove the closet door). That was a little too ambitious for me at this point and I am happy with what I have so far.
Due to expansive soils, houses in Dallas do not have basements and are constructed on a slab. So either need to find a new house after retirement with a large media room OR move to a state where they construct basements. By the time I retire my home will be worth close to or over $500k. I paid $148k to build it new and it is at $300k now.&nb
It might be the decoders with sound cards changed or draw more power. I definitely noticed a difference in volume between the sound cards between the different models or else my DCC has the volume cranked up somewhere. On the proto 2000 (Walthers) engines I have to raise my voice over the noise. Athearn is about right volume wise (Tsunami).
Also noticed the start speed step on the NCE of the Intermountain F7 is definitely and noticeably a lot lower than the Athearn GP-7. Not sure if that is different gearing or one draws more power than the other or both. I suspect you can program around that for multi-unit lashups.
You should be able to program your locomotives to all having the same running characteristics. You will have to play with speed tables to do that and I am not knowledgeable enough to give you instructions on how to do that. However, I will suggest that if you are going to install your own decoders in the future you should consider using Loksound Selects. They have a self programming capability that automatically adjusts the locomotive to start moving very slowly at speed step 1 and rewrites the speed tables to suit the particular motor.
Where exactly in your manual did you read that your system is OK and does not require a Programming Track Booster?
You may have missed my reply to your initial post, but your best option is to purchase a Soundtraxx PTB-100 Programming Track Booster for around $50.
Here is an NCE article that discusses this entire issue including an alternative to purchasing a Programming Track Booster. The alternative seems too complicated for me, so I would be content to purchase a Programming Track Booster.
Rich, that surprises me. I purchased my Ph-Pro in 2004. Initially, all my locos were non-sound and I had no problems using the Programming Track.
But, my first sound equipped locomotive had a QSI Quantum decoder, and the Programming Track could not read CVs. The problem increased when my next sound decoder was a Soundtraxx Tsunami. So, I purchased and installed a PTB-100 Programming Track Booster, and my problems ended with the Programming Track.
I must be missing something in this discussion. I have a portable programming track powered by the original 2 amp wall wart from the NCE starter set I purchased a number of years ago. Using just that power source and the throttle that came with the starter set I have programmed a number of sound equipped units from various mfgs without any trouble. The list includes BLI Paragon, Athearn, Walthers and a couple of others. What am I not getting?
It could have been the NEC website vs the manual but I think it was warning agaist a direct connection to the Cab…Here is the warning again in bold concerning the PROCAB. I did see your comment about Soundtraxx and I will go that route. In the link below, that is an exact picture of my hand held cab so I am sure that is the way to go since NEC recommends it as well.
Thanks, had input from the consultants and asked which they thought would be better for a DCC novice and they liked the NEC help desk and website…
They also recommended I switch from Atlas to Bachman track because they said I probably would have less an issue with DCC plus the trackplan they did was with Bachman. I like Atlas better so I might use Bachman for turnouts (will do some testing before that decision) but majority of track will be Atlas. They recommended sectional track vs flex track on the helix as well, stated it would be far less frustrating to use sectional track with the limited install space and I agreed with them there.
Unlike the PH-Pro, the Power Cab has never needed a programming track booster and has enough oomph to program sound decoders - like the ones you mentioned above. And, given that it’s portable, you can program locomotives from your bench or your layout.
That would indeed be true for a passenger train with lighted cars but not so for a freight train - i.e. unless you are running a string of BLI stock cars that are all clucking and mooing at the same time. Newer, efficient locomotive motors have 1/2 to a 1/4 of the current draw as older, less efficient locomotives. Even locomotives equipped with sound decoders may only draw a 1/2A each.
I think that we are back where we started with the PowerCab versus the ProCab (PH-Pro).
Do you have the PowerCab or the ProCab (PH-Pro)?
The warning in bold letters in that link refers to the PowerCab and cautions that you should not connect a Programming Track Booster of any kind to the PowerCab.
But since you have the 5 amp wireless DCC system, we are operating on the assumption that you have the ProCab, the PH-Pro.
That link from NCE is about adding a Programming Track Booster to the ProCab.
Here is the pertinent language:
The NCE 5 amp systems were designed prior to the widespread use of so
Just a different design. I’ve never needed a program track booster for any brand sound decoder I’ve used so far, which includes QSI in the first Broadway Limited and Atlas models, an old Soundtraxx DSD-LC, Loksound 3.5, and Loksound Select. And a Tsunami. But the difference is I am using a Digitrax PR3 as a programmer. I was able to program these decoders with my Zephyr as well, no booster, no use of the Blast Mode. There are various combinations of systems and decoders that work better than others, Plus for reasons I am not able to explain, what works for one person doesn;t always work for the next.
Something almost certain to fail is havine a keep alive attached to the decoder, at least the 2 wire type. The capacitor will effectively ‘suck up’ the program track signal. The more expensive 3 wire types for specific decoders like Lenz and ESU use that extra wire to keep the cap disabled in certain circumstances.
Yeah the manual is unclear as well, it just says POWER PRO on the front, the cab says PROCAB…you would think they would be consistent on the **** name throughout. So I went to the packing list from the shipping box (lol).
It says PH PRO R DCC System with Radio…so that should settle it.
FYI: Power Pro and PH-Pro are one and the same and the name for your NCE DCC system. ProCab is the name of the handheld throttle that you use with the Power Pro/PH-Pro.
And, FWIW, a Power Cab can be used with the Power Pro/PH-Pro as an additional ProCab throttle.
Bought the Soundtraxx PTB-100 at the local Hobby store, was surprised they had it in stock, I just need to wire it in.
Quick question on that, is it normal these days to have that exposed circuit board hanging out in the open? Isn’t there like a housing or something it can be placed in? I guess I can hide it under a building or in scenery. Seems a little odd to sell it this way.
Since typically these things are mounted up under the layout out of the way, it’s not too critical to cover up the board. Most circuit breaker and block detector systems are similarly open boards like that. If it’s mounted up top, a cover of some sort wouldn’t be a bad idea, to keep stray wires from valling on it or other tools and materials that could cause damage.
