Richard, a better idea for you is to buy a used Lionel RS-3 or just the shell if you can find on ebay. Chop the shell done and mount it to the chassis of the MP-15. I’ve done this one and it works very well. And on a smaller type of layout, the RS-3 looks much better with the slightly smaller proportions… it really does.
There are plenty of small modifictions that can be done to the K-Line S2 to make it look a little different and / or to add details… using metal ladders in place of the molded in ones (this is more effective if you repaint, thus sanding off the molded in ones), cutting out a window in to the back door on the cab, cutting windows into the front of the cab (can be done, but takes some patience!), adding metal horn and bell in-place of the plastic ones (Lionel ones work just fine), adding a real headlight to the front in place of the lucite tube inside the loco, adding marker lights, adding handrails along the side of the loco and by the step on each side of the door on the cab, adding a flashing strobe light on the cab, filling in the frame gap on the front and back of the loco…
Just a few ideas there. It’s fun to take these lesser expensive units and make them into much nicer looking units. I love it when folks say “Why does your S2 look and run so much better than mine?” It may have started as a K-Line, but when I’m done with 'em, they become “Brianel’s!”
I’ve been acquiring the K-Line Alco FA diesels. IMO they’re about the best looking smaller (027) size covered wagons you can buy, for a great price usually, and with two strong motors for pulling! I run them on my 027 tubular track and have no problems (derail or otherwise) whatsoever!
I have a couple of MP-15s I’ve been running under the Christmas tree this year. The one that is running on 042 white Super “K” track hasn’t had any problem negotiating the turns. However its horn isn’t working. Does anyone know where I can find the steps to diagnose and fix the problem?
I also noticed a switch that was set to “Series On”, but it could be changed to “Parallel Off”. I never noticed it before. What does that do?
The other one is derailing occasionally on the O27 curves. What’s unusual (to me) is that it tends to happen more often when the train is going slowly. Does that “spring fix” help correct that type of problem? I searched for the “spring fix” here, but I couldn’t find it.
I have to admit, both engines appear to have a lot of power. One of them is pulling 14 cars (4 of which are lighted), and I still wouldn’t dare give it full power.
I’ve got a K-Line Pacific I bought at a flea market that had a dead whistle unit. I didn’t bother trying to fix it, I yanked the thing and installed a Williams whistle and bell unit. The engine’s smoke unit was dead as well, but I haven’t tried to do anything with that one, it’s an oddball unit, more HO in size so an O gauge size doesn’t fit.
I don’t know how much room you’ve got under the hood of that MP-15, but the Williams units are pretty good, easy install and I haven’t had any issues with them.
The difference between parallel and series is that in series the engines are wired where the power goes thru the one motor first then to the second motor, which useually will give you slower starting speed and top end speed than parallel. Which a lot like better, as it is more realistic
If two dual-motored locomotives are lashed together, should they both be set to either parallel or series…or does it not make a difference?
I’m sorry if the answers may seem obvious to some, but I’ve never really known much about electronics.
I would set the same. You still may have where one is faster than the other. ( not all motors run the same. ) but they should be okay but there is always a chance. The best way to check is put them on the same track about a foot or so apart and see if one is faster.
Thanks for the insight.
I still have a couple of questions:
Does the “spring fix” help correct that derailment problem at slow speeds?
Where can I see the steps needed to make that “spring fix”?