Kadee Coupler installation on Athearn F7

[HAZMAT9]

I’m having problems installing No. 37 Kadees on a Athearn F7 gear drive unit. I drilled the 2-56 hole through the unit’s chasis and sandwiched the spring lid, torsion spring, draft gear box, coupler and standard lid per the installation directions. When I tighten the 2-56 screw, the coupler can’t rock side to side, when I loosen the screw the entire assembly moves. In addition, the torsion spring doesn’t do a heck of a lot in my opinion and is weak. Any ideas on how to fix my problem? Thanks!

[gmcrail]

Try a drop of CA between the draft gear box and the chassis frame. Tighten the draft gear box lid until the coupler begins to bind, then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

[HAZMAT9]

Try a drop of CA between the draft gear box and the chassis frame. Tighten the draft gear box lid until the coupler begins to bind, then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Only the standard lid makes contact with the chasis frame (it goes spring lid then torsion spring then draft gear box then coupler then standard lid which rests on the chasis), I’m wondering if I can do away with the standard lid and just have the coupler making contact with the chasis? This may help…the standard lid doesn’t even lock in place it seems that it’s like a spacer of some sort; I can’t even get it to lock in place with the draft gear box.

[gmcrail]

Only the standard lid makes contact with the chasis frame (it goes spring lid then torsion spring then draft gear box then coupler then standard lid which rests on the chasis), I’m wondering if I can do away with the standard lid and just have the coupler making contact with the chasis? This may help…the standard lid doesn’t even lock in place it seems that it’s like a spacer of some sort; I can’t even get it to lock in place with the draft gear box.

Well, I’ve always used the #5 or (or #58) on my Athearn BB locos. If that puts your coupler too low, then file the chassis mount down a bit.

I wouldn’t have the coupler shank in direct contact with the chassis, if I were you. You’ll possibly have electrical problems, not to mention the issue of binding. Looking at the pages on the Kadee website, I would say use the Kadee #148 Whisker coupler, file down the mounting pad to raise it up about about 3/64", and cut off the rear of the box to provide clearance for the trucks. It would be so much simpler…

[HAZMAT9]

Only the standard lid makes contact with the chasis frame (it goes spring lid then torsion spring then draft gear box then coupler then standard lid which rests on the chasis), I’m wondering if I can do away with the standard lid and just have the coupler making contact with the chasis? This may help…the standard lid doesn’t even lock in place it seems that it’s like a spacer of some sort; I can’t even get it to lock in place with the draft gear box.

Well, I’ve always used the #5 or (or #58) on my Athearn BB locos. If that puts your coupler too low, then file the chassis mount down a bit.

I wouldn’t have the coupler shank in direct contact with the chassis, if I were you. You’ll possibly have electrical problems, not to mention the issue of binding. Looking at the pages on the Kadee website, I would say use the Kadee #148 Whisker coupler, file down the mounting pad to raise it up about about 3/64", and cut off the rear of the box to provide clearance for the trucks. It would be so much simpler…

I didn’t know that the Wisker coupler was the type that a few of my Athearn engines already have. The Athearn part diagrams list them under a different numbering system (probably for Athearn). Anyhow, the #148s would save a lot of headaches in the long run. Funny that the conversion list for F units doesn’t list the 140 series as a possibility for the Athearns, just the 30 series. Thanks for the much appreciated help!