I am converting several old couplers to Kadee #5’s. One coupler had the spring off. I tried to put it back but was unsuccessful. I even used my magnifier and tweezers but could not handle it due to its small size and just bent the spring.
Is there a secret technique to putting these tiny springs back in place?
Doc
I use a small jewelers flat blade screwdriver. I stab the spring about 2 coils from one end of the spring. Just stick the flat blade between a couple coils, it will hold it. I then use the screwdriver to position the opposite end of the spring onto the small stub that sticks out of the coupler near the car end of the coupler. Then CAREFULLY compress the spring sightly and guide the end of the spring held with the screwdriver unto the mounting point at the other end of the coupler.
A video or picture would be much more helpful.
I use a Xacto #11 knife to pick up the spring and place it. I ‘lose’ one every once in a while, but it works pretty good. I stick the point of the blade between the coils near one end and them place the other end on the shank end of the coupler. I use the knife to compress the spring and let it ‘pop’ onto the knuckle projection as I pull the blade away.
Jim
Hi!
Welcome to the KD spring fight club! I first converted back in the mid '70s, and it only took be about 15 years to figure out a much easier way to handle them. Get a smaller size Xacto knife with the pointed blade (believe its # 11). Stick the point about 1/4 of the way from one end of the spring (like you were going to slice it in two). The spring will easily adhere to the blade. Stick the longer exposed end of the spring onto one of the coupler nibs, lightly compress that end with the blade, and manuever the short end onto the other nib. Then, carefully remove the blade.
This shouldn’t take you much to get the hang of it, and you will find it really works with ease.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
Following link shows the general idea of how it is done: http://www.micromark.com/SPRING-GRABBER,7636.html
Regards
Doc,My favorite approach is to use the small end of a tooth pick…I use that method more then my KD “Dual Tool”.
Kadee actually makes a little tool to do this. I bought one, but somehow I always find something better to do. I don’t think it’s substantially different than using a small screwdriver or knife blade, though.
Someone suggested using a needle and thread to put a “tether” on the coupler spring. Once it’s installed, the thread can be removed, but somehow the thread prevents the spring from entering a completely different dimension and disappearing forever when you drop it. Stephen Hawking is an expert on the “Thread Theory” which explains this, but I’m afraid the math is beyond me.
I have one of those Kadee “Spring Pic” gizmos but have found a number 11 X-Acto blade or small jeweler’s screwdriver tip to be much easier to use.
We are talking knuckle coil springs here. It ain’t easy. I use a very fine pointed pair of tweezers to grab the spring and compress a few coils. Slip one end of the spring over one sprig nub. That’s the easy part. The harder part is getting the other end of the spring over the other nub. I hold on with the tweezers and use a finger to sort of push the spring in place. Occasionally a spring goes ping and disappears.
Once in place, a very tiny dab of Duco cement will hold the spring in place.
That is what I use as well. I’ve tried lots of things but the tooth pick works the best.
First off, take a needle and a some sewing thread and thread it thru the spring then tie the string on both ends to form a loop. (this will help you find the spring if it happens to fly away into the carpet never to find it again without the thread.) next as mentioned, use a KADEE spring pic tool or a #11 exacto blade knife to feed the spring onto the knuckle pins. It’s easier to attach the spring to the back pin, then carefully bend the spring onto the front knuckle pin. Once your done, cut the thread and carefully remove it from the spring…chuck
I am a member of the very small screwdriver club. I tried the knife blade (too large to get into some spots, and didn’t grip the spring as well) and the KD tool (that knob just gets in the way). I also use a magnifier and light to see what I am doing. Car end details and loco pilots can get in the way. About every 3rd coupler it can take 3 or 4 tries to get the spring to seat, and in about half those cases i lose the spring and have to use another.
I have a small pill bottle about half full of the extra springs KD includes in the packs, and probably that many springs elsewhere in the workroom that I have never found again.
Phil
Micromark sells a metal tool specifically made for this and it works very well. It is the right size and has a nub on the end that fits between the coils of the spring so it can’t fly off. It has a textured handle that makes for a tool that does the job. It is easy to pick up the spring and lodge one end on one hook of the coupler and slide the spring in place. This tool works much better than the Kadee tool.
For me, it’s the Kadee Spring Tool hands down! [:D]
My wife’s cousin, who has over 100 pieces of rolling stock (good grief!), recently brought me about 30 couplers that he asked me to respring for him. I get the tool and proceed to respring each coupler in just a few minutes!
For those that are not aware, the key is to insert the blade of the tool’s tip near ONE END of the spring (2nd or 3rd coil from the end), not the middle. After gently “spearing” the spring, slowly install the opposite into the tooth nearest the shank, then compress it towards the shank and bring it forward into the tooth that’s mounted on the knuckle. That’s it! The curved blade on the tool is what helps make the job progress so fast. An exacto knife can work, but you risk having the spring slide and “ping” off if you slip up.
High Greens!
Hey, thanks a lot guys.
I thought I was going to add this to the “too old to do list’.
Doc