I just purchased a Branchline reefer kit this past weekend and put it together. This is my first Branchline kit and I am fairly pleased with their quality. However, I have run into a slight problem that has prompted me rattle off this post, in hopes that you might be able to help me out with this issue.
Has any of you ever replaced the EZ Mate couplers (that come with the kits) with a Kadee #5 or #58 coupler? I instaled a Kadee #58 coupler (manufacturer suggested) but it has a bit of in-and-out movement and not much side-to-side recoil. This is most likely due to the fact that the hole in the Kadee coupler doesn’t fit snug around the coupler box post.
I contacted Branchline yesterday and they told me that either of the Kadee #5 or #58 couplers should drop right in the coupler box. I e-mailed Branchline again this morning with my observations but haven’t heard back from them yet. I just wanted to know if any of you have had similar problems with these on Branchline rolling stock and/or have devised some sort of fix for it.
I appreciate any input you might have. Thanks! [:)]
I have several of the Branchline kits and have had aweful luck with them. They are constant derailers and more work then they should be with couplers and coupler height. Not worth the money for me
Randy Johnson
Tom, i had this with a few cars of a different manufacturer, i made some spacers from nylon pipe to remove the in / out movement of the KD #5, the copper shim with the KD might be the reason its a bit tight moving side to side, the extra thickness may be to blame ???
Hmmm…maybe I’ll just have to come up with my own solution then. If it were a cheap Athearn kit, I probably wouldn’t give two hoots. But the quality on this Branchline reefer is very nice, so I think I’ll have to work on it. I just my have to take my calipers home tonight to see how much of a discrepancy we are talking about.
Steve, the problem with the side-to-side isn’t because it’s too tight, it’s actually too loose. The coupler doesn’t spring back to the “center postion” like it’s designed to but just kinda slops around like a limp rag. It still couplers but there’s just no tension like there is supposed to be. The up and down movement is pretty much what it’s supposed to be.
Tstage- It sounds like the car has a 1/16th" center post instead of a 1/8th" standard post.
McHenry addresses this modifacation on their site. It consists of buying a peice of one eighth inch styrene and dilling a one sixteenth inch hole in the center and gluing it on to the smaller post. This also works for cheap Tyco style truck mounted horn hook conversions for people that don’t want to convert to NMRA standard draft gear boxes. Good Luck!
I don’t understang why the coupler spring (#5/58) isn’t working. In it’s box it has mostly side/side motion and little-to-no forward/back motion. If you are using the KD BOX, what is inhibiting the coupler?
Loose, “not snug” fit around the center post?
Try a #20 series (23?). It comes with a ‘sizing’ ring for the center post. Worst case, cut off the coupler box, and mount the entire KD. That’s what I did to all my B.B car’s.
No, I’m using the coupler box that is built into the bottom frame of the reefer. Thanks for the suggestions. I had comtemplated cutting the coupler box off and installing the entire Kadee coupler kit as a whole. Actually, I think it would both work and look better, as the copper Kadee spring protrudes out from the coupler box. by a good 1/8" or so.
You can always try trimming the part that sticks out. There should be enough material there that you won’t effect the springs centering properties. Or paint it so it’s not so noticable.
When I got home, I double-checked what I had written above. I was wrong. The coupler does fit snuggly around the coupler box post. However, the recoil is still pretty non-existiant. I even tried another copper insert - no change.
Well, I"ll probably do one of three things:
Cut off the existing coupler box and install the entire Kadee kit
Try a McHenry coupler to see if that doesn’t improve things
Live with it - It couples fine
I’ll wait to see if Branchline responds back from the last e-mail that I sent them.
Anyway, thank you all for your responses and suggestions. I’ll let you know what I decide to do.
SOUND’s like something is inhibiting the coupler spring from working.
The flat KD side ‘whisker’s’ center the spring with diferent tension’s on each side.
The whisker’s have to bow outward and spring back, to work the coupler. A too narrow pocket would defeat this (so would too wide). Quoting Baby Bear:“It has to be 'just right”
If you cut off the orig. supplied pocket, a KD #33 has a different centering design and two height adjustment’s - not one - and mate’s perfectly wih other KD’s. No copper to stick out, + no droop. No front/back motion - only side/side.
Kadee makes a black plastic adapter ring that goes around small coupler posts to enlarge them. It’s included with some flavors of Kadee coupler, though I don’t recall which ones. I don’t know if they sell this item separately like they do with replacement knuckle springs, etc., but you might want to check Kadee’s web site and see.
When I build LBF Hi Cube kits I find that if I don’t clean up the inside surface of the coupler pocket very clean and smooth I have no success with Kadee’s operating correctly. I file the surface SMOOTH and things seem to work well-with the exception that the darn spring hangs out the end of the box.
I don’t recall any problems I’ve had cplr wise w/ branchline but I notice in the thread a derailing complaint. The one consistant problem I’ve had w/ B/L is wheel drag on the 45 degree corner braces. A little work w/ an XActo #17 and the problem disappears.
While I don’t recall any KD problems w/ B/L, I do keep some 1/8" stryene tube around for the sloppy fit problem that occasionally comes up. Shave off the stock lug and replace w/ the proper length of tube. It even comes pre-drilled to tap for a 2-56 screw.
Well…I decided to go with Option #1 (Thank you, Don!) and carefully “whacked” the coupler box off with an X-acto knife. I had to cut into the center frame slightly so that the Kadee coupler kit could be center around the old hole, as well as clip and file the ears off the Kadee coupler box so that the trucks wouldn’t rub up against it.
At any rate, it now works like it’s supposed to. Thanks again for the input everyone!