I’m just getting back into the hobby after a long break - and find American prototype modelling full of questions (I need a “Model Railroading For Dummies” book). Kadee couplings feature in a few of them…
So I see RTR models sold labelled “Kadee Couplers” but when I go to the Kadee website there seem to be numerous varieties of coupler - 28, 57, 140 etc. Are these all compatible with one another? And if I want to fit Kadees to wagons that don’t have them, which model should I buy?
In the same scale, they generally all couple with each other. There the choice is usually between the standard size knuckle and the smaller “scale” size one (which can be a bit fussier but look better).
It’s the other end where the differences come into play for the most part. The shank or drawbar can fit different mounting locations, allowing for height of the mount so that the knuckles all come out even to mate easily. This is set by a gauge that Kadee sells and is recommended. The shanks offer under- and over-set versions for different mounting location heights in order to achieve the standard knuckle height. They are also in different lengths to suit the needs of what you’re coupling together, etc.
The boxes and centering springs also differ. The new “whisker” versions have the centering built-into the shanks and require no separate spring, which can be handy.
Best thing to do to start is consult the Conversion page at Kadee to see what they recommend for your particualr equipment:
The following companies sell HO RTR rolling stock with Kadee’s already equipped:
Athearn, Athearn Genesis and Atlas come with plastic Kadee clones which generally people find are inferior to metal Kadee’s.
In the past, the KD#5 was the standard coupler used in most kits to such as Athearn blue box, Model Die Casting, Walthers red box and Accurail kits. Most people now prefer the whisker equivelent to the KD#5, which is the KD#148 - same but with a whisker wire on each side to center the coupler instead of the traditional bronze insert.
Some prefer the “scale” head Kadee’s which are smaller and closer to scale in HO - the whisker version is #58 or 158 bulk package. They will mate with each other. The 158 is more realistic looking but due to it’s smaller size, may be more prone to false uncouplings due to any height missmatch issues. Some go with the larger #5 or whisker equivelent #148 which may be more forgiving and reliable.
Kadee makes others such as under set shank or over set - to deal with rolling stock which a standard KD might be too low or too high. There are also long and short shannk. I suggest getting the 0.010 and 0.015 fiber washers too, and a KD height gauge - those will help you in adjusting and checking coupler height.
At one time Kadee sold a package which had one each of every coupler in their line. I think that was just 13 couplers! They were not meant to be used - they were meant to be tried out so you’d know what kind to buy. Whether they still have such a package or not I do not know - it would now be a much larger package that is for sure! But just having a few of the more common types sitting around is a good idea for trial and error conversions where there is no obvious choice. And while this may sound childishly obvious – take notes about does and does not work for future reference.
Dave Nelson
Malc,
Not a dumb question. The #5 is Kadee’s ubiquitous coupler and what you’ll find on most models sold with Kadee couplers. The #58 is the smaller scale-version of that and the #158 the “whisker” (vs. spring plate) version of the same. I prefer the smaller, more realistic couplers but have had no problems coupling the numberous Kadee varieties to one another.
If you end up primarily using one particular type/number of Kadee coupler, see if it comes in the 20 pairs/pack. You save quite a bit of $$$ that way. IIRC, the downside is that they don’t include any coupler boxes with those, like they do with the smaller envelopes.
Tom
I would also suggest a call or email to Kaddee. I live right down the road from them and they are nothing short of amazing on customer service. Sam is a whealth of info and can tell you off the top of his head what loco needs what coupler. They also have a conversion list on their site that helps tell you what is needed.
But if you are in any doubt call them. When I go out there they drop everything to make sure all my railroad needs are met. Best customer service I have ever dealt with in the hobby!
Aforementioned Kadee Coupler Conversion Chart (HO)
Per manufacturer: http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc.htm
That said, except for a few locomotives from manufacturers like Marklin/Trix, #5s are pretty much recommended for everything.
Tom
Yes all the Kadee HO couplers - including the scale-head ones - will couple with each other. The different types are just different shanks and centering springs. They even make a coupler that is a snap-in replacement for the European NEM coupler.
Being new to MR, I replaced most of the plastic Kadee-clone type couplers with the #5 Kadee ones. There was a learning curve to removing the old and installing the new. Thankfully, youtube and here offer great sugestions on installing any of the above couplers.
I would suggest that you wait to install the Kadee until you see how the clones function.
The vast number of Kadee coupler numbers represents Kadee’s policy of making a coupler to fit every single piece of HO rolling stock ever built. Most freight cars will take a #5 Kadee or the integral centering spring version, the “whisker coupler”. Locomotives, truck mounted couplers and passenger cars may take anything. Kadee publishes a “what-fits-what” list on their website and other places. You can save yourself a lot of filing and hacking and cussing by checking the list first, and installing the recommended coupler. Although it is possible to warp a #5 coupler into darn near anything, it’s worth buying the recommended coupler IMHO. Also remember that many locomotives need electrically insulated couplers to prevent short circuits when double heading.
Hello All,
Thanks for all your sage advice - I’ve emailed Sam (there is a bit of a time difference from Oregon to London) for advice. As one of you mentioned - the coupling end seems fairly straightforward, it is the other bits that I’m in the dark about!