On my last HO scale layout, I used the Kadee magnets for uncoupling and just glued them between the rails ON TOP of the ties. There was no problem, probably because I was using code 100 Atlas track. I just went to install those same magnets on my Shinohara code 83 track and found that the magnets are too high…the underside of my RS-1 actually got hung up on the magnet. So, I guess I now have 2 choices.
I can cut out the ties between the rails enough to fit the magnet OR I can pull up my sidings and cut out my roadbed underneath in order to set the magnets under the ties.
I’m not too fond of the idea of pulling up the track and wonder if the magnets are placed that low, will they still work fine?
If any of you guys do cut out the ties between the rails, how do you do that? Do you use a Dremel or can you use an X-Acto chisel blade with a slight tap with a small hammer?
Any and all help and discussion would be appreciated.
Cutting out the ties and setting the magnets between the rails is an acceptable solution. The Kadee Coupler height gauge has a tester for making sure that the magnets are set at the right hight. There is a little rod in the back of a kadee hight gauge. It hanges down below the gauge and rides up and over elements in the track. Then the rod is level with the top of the gauge it is the right height. If the rod is higher then it is to high. SO when you do your modification to your track, check this so you can avoid problems later. This also means you will probably have to shim your magnet some what so can achieve the correct height.
I use the Mchenry magnet uncouplers…here is my webpage demonstrating how i put them in with explanations to the lower right if you want to look at it…click the next button will take you thru the series of pictures showing how i mounted them…chuck
The magnets intended for between-the-rails use are probably much weaker than those intended for under-the-ties mounting, so I doubt that they would work very well if you bury that particular model.
I’ve got a P2K S1, which rides even lower than the RS units. It runs aground on magnets that are mounted according to the Kadee spec, so I had to shave down my Code 100 Atlas flex-track to put the top of the magnet even with the tops of the rails. This still uncouples just fine, as long as the couplers are adjusted the way they should be according to the Kadee gauge.
I used a Dremel to shave the ties. It was already glued down, so I had to do it on-layout. In the future, I’ll do it on the workbench, though.
I don’t mean to be contrary, but another consideration if operating like the prototype is your goal (rather than just having a lot of cool gadgets on the model), then I suggest you consider ditching the magnets all together.
If you watch the prototype switch, they can couple and uncouple anywhere, and they are often banging on couplers to align them, and manually fiddling with coupler jaws to open them so they can couple.
So if the prototype manually fiddles with couplers a lot while switching, why do we need to do it hands off? On my HO Siskiyou Line, we use a manual uncoupling pick made from a bamboo shiskabob skewer. We don’t have to think model railroading thoughts as much while operating (we can uncouple anywhere just like the prototype), and it’s certainly easier to not have to deal with uncoupling magnet issues.
The problem though with manual uncoupling is you need to be able to have a walk around throttle set up. I freid my DC walk around throttle pack so that option is out. And I am planning on setting up my control board so it resembles the operators panel in the operators “Cabin” at the junction I have on my layout. So I need some way of being able to sit close to the thorttle and still be able to un couple as needed…
Always good to hear your input. As a matter of fact, I plan to use an uncoupling pick as you described for uncoupling on the mainline and ALL the places where we can reach. However, I have a few long sidings behind buildings where it would be very difficult to reach in with the pick. That’s why I thought I would use a few magnets. However, if you’ve got some ideas on how to uncouple on a long, unreachable siding, I’d certainly like to hear from you. Maybe I’m stuck on the paradigm that I want to be able to push the car way back into the siding AFTER I’ve used a magnet to get the couplers in “delayed” action. If I uncouple using a pick at the beginning of a long siding, then how do I get the car way back to the loading dock unless I push it by hand? Do you use the pick to set the coupler in “delayed” action?
Somewhat off the original topic: Joe, I see a strong correlation between the preference for remote uncoupling (magnet system) and coupling (automatic couplers) versus skewer (and its derivatives) uncoupling and coupling and where one fits on your railfan vs engineer continuum. The railfan end is less likely to accept the 0-5-0 reaching into the middle of the scene to uncouple, manipulate tacks or pins, and manually throw turnouts from ground throws at the turnout site than the engineer. The engineer sees these actions as operating like the prototype; the railfan sees an out of scale hand interfering with his/her view of a minature world. Plenty of reasons can be given to support both points of view, but in the end it’s really a personal preference.
It strikes me that the ultimate for the engineer end of the continuum would be the Sergent couplers. Their operation, including coupling, comes closest to duplicating prototype operation of anything on the market to day. But it does require reaching in with a wand (to open the knuckle) and/or the wire (to center the coupler).&nb
Another consideration is layout depth. For a narrow shelf, it’s not a problem, but I’ve got a 5x12 foot free-standing table. The yard throat, as it turns it, is almost in the middle, just that 30 inches of “maximum reach” from anywhere. With scenery on the layout edge, right in front of the yard, just getting to the couplers would be tricky. So, I’m a fan of both uncoupler magnets and remote turnouts.
I’ll also admit that I fall into the group that doesn’t care for the Hand of God reaching down into the layout. I’m happiest when I can run my trains without having to put my fingers anywhere but the control panels and the throttles. To add to everyone’s database, I have decided that I’m more a fan of scenery than of prototypical operations. I run the trains around and around their loops, and I’m happy every time I see an engine or caboose pass by, even the same ones over and over.
Somewhat off the original topic: Joe, I see a strong correlation between the preference for remote uncoupling (magnet system) and coupling (automatic couplers) versus skewer (and its derivatives) uncoupling and coupling and where one fits on your railfan vs engineer continuum. The railfan end is less likely to accept the 0-5-0 reaching into the middle of the scene to uncouple, manipulate tacks or pins, and manually throw turnouts from ground throws at the turnout site than the engineer. The engineer sees these actions as operating like the prototype; the railfan sees an out of scale hand interfering with his/her view of a minature world. Plenty of reasons can be given to support both points of view, but in the end it’s really a personal preference.
It strikes me that the ultimate for the engineer end of the continuum would be the Sergent couplers. Their operation, including coupling, comes closest to duplicating prototype operation of anything on the market to day. But it does require reaching in with a wand (to open the knuckle) and/or the wire (to
I use the Kadee under the tie permanent magnets. Kadee part number 308. They also make an electromagnetic version, 309. I’ve never tried it. The 308s work great and are easy to install. I just cut a square in the Woodland Scenics trackbed, drop in the magnet, lay the track and go.
I have seen other articles describing similar in greater detail, but this the best I can come up with at the moment - see the construction details tab at http://mysite.verizon.net/the.regans/ I offset my magnets just a hair (by eye), similar to the way the electromagnet poles were offset by 5 degrees in that article. I have seen installations under the rails, and it’s possible just outside the rails might work, too, although inside the rails would be generally less visible. In general, a lot easier than installing under the ties magnets, and cheaper, too.
THANKS a bunch for this info…those would work great in a yard… Oh, and FYI, your K&J magnetics link is broken… no worries, I googled and found them, but just thought you might want to know.
Thanks so much for the link to your site. I’m real anxious to try those magnets and also found K&J Magnetics with a google search. Their prices are great. I found the magnets you described by looking at their “Cylinder Magnets”. The one thing I wondered is if you have any problems stopping a car between the 2 magnets. I
The B&O Georgetown Branch is not my web site and I can’t take credit - I wish it were. It’s a great web site, especially for a guy who grew up very close to the Potomac River in the Great Falls area of Virginia - long before it became McMansionville. I’ve been too lazy (or too busy - I prefer to think the latter!) to set up my own site. However, earlier threads about uncoupling ramps provided this link. When I find a great “how to” web page, I copy it to my local computer files because permanency on the web is an oxy-moron. To respond to your questions, I located the downloaded files on my computer, and researched their origin. I can’t post somebody else’s web site without permission, but downloading a copy for myself falls within fair use. I do believe a link is fair also.
I have tried the rare earth magnet system before taking down my last layout and I like it. I use very slow switching speeds, with momentum off (DC), so I can line up precisely enough for the magnets to work. However, you do point out a real