I have a 12 x 8 lHO layout but it has to be a temporary one as I probably will not be in my house forever. I initially put down Atlas True-Track with 24 radius curves but after weeks of watching my six-axle diesels and longer passenger cars derail all over the place–plus frustration over ballasting and Atlas switches (which have to be the worst on earth), I tore up everything, turned over the foamboard, and am starting again with KATO Unitrack.
First, I am going for 31 radius curves. Will that be sufficient for rolling stock like Walthers Superliner or Budd cars and diesels like AC4400CWs?
Second, can anyone recommend a way to temporarilyy affix the Unitrack? I don’t want to glue it down as it’s megaexpensive and I will want to use it again if I do move.
I can only speak for the AC4400s really, but I’m using Ho Unitrack with 31" radius and #6 switches with ZERO problems - I run SD90s and 85’ flat cars with no issues as well.
I can honestly say that I’ve had no issues with the unitrack whatsoever YMMV etc etc [:)]
Thanks for the reply. How are the switches? One thing I hated about Atlas switches was their inability to remain locked in place–resulting in misdirected trains or outright derailments.
I’ve have heard that Unitrack provided smooth running and it seems you are confirming this.
Personally, I have no operating experience of unitrack on grades, but unitrack will flex vertically slightly, so as long as your grade transitions are gentle, you should be ok.
What I would suggest is getting a pack of 4 14.5’/369mm straights and trying them out - at the very worst, you’ve still got four very nice display sections for your locos [;)]
I use Kato Unitrack – both N and HO. The beauty of it for me is that I can set up a track around the living room when the kids have gone to bed, play trains and then put it away again before the kids wake up!
For HO, I have the small radius switches (19.25 inch), which work fine with Atlas dash 8-40’s and Kato SD40, however if you put two curves the opposite way to form an S some cars can come off because of the tight radius. I would therefore recommend using the larger radius track/switches. The switches have screws under to set power routing etc. Great for DCC as you can power all the track from one feed. I have also glued some Kadee magnets under the track for uncoupling purposes, and this seems to work okay, (had to cut some of the roadbed off to allow for the magnet).
Well my gigantic box of track arrived from Discount Trains Online but I have not had time to set it up. I have to echo Paul’s sentiment–one of the attractions is being able to set it up and take it down. I plan on landscaping my layout but everything else must (should?) be able to be used again when I move in a few years.
I still need to figure out a way to temporarily secure the Unitrack.
As for cost, yes it’s expensive but one thing I’ve learned in this hobby since returning to it as as an adult is that if you want quality you’ve got to pay for it (like everything else in life). The Atlas stuff was much cheaper but it caused me no end of frustration. Derailments are the main reason I gave up the hobby as a teenager.
When I get it all set up I will post again with my thoughts.
I have had great success so far with Unitrak. For realism I carefully painted it black instead of leaving it light gray. Pricey, yeah Ill say but I derailed once only because of switching at the wrong time (Stupidity). I just connect my unitrak to DCC and it convinced me that I really made a good choice. Only fault I see is cost and realism.
For holdign it down temp, I used a glue gun sparingly. It was enough to hold it down, and I can scrape it off pretty well. Im using plywood so its easier than foam id imagine.
Are you saying that you put it together, and derailed only once and that while running a switch?? Wow. I’m impressed. Are you running HO or N?
Thanks,
Jack
I am running N scale with an ALCO PA1 KAto Engine, and A seond Egine as a Kato SD40. The Alco is pulling the CA Zephyr with 6-7 Passenger Cars. SD40 pulling a few rolling stock abouyt 5…Layout is small 3x5. What I have noticed is that the smaller the layout the harder it is to work on .
But so far so good. Im new to RR so its been a good start so far.
What did you end up using the affix the track down? I am in a similar situation where I just purchased a bunch of unitrack and will be setting up a temporarily layout around the holidays. Also I want to avoid gluing it for future use. Let me know.
I have seen posts that say they have used latex caulk to hold down Unitrack (or sme other brand). Those who use the caulk for flex track spread a very thin layer on foam and have been successful in removing it later. I would think there is less risk in damaging your rack simce it is on on the base. If you were worried about peeling it up, you could do as suggested above and just tack a few places.
When I spread my latex caulk, it was very thin (see through) and has held the track well.
I have a layout using HO Unitrack with a plywood base that I wanted to fasten with a view to eventual removal for a new layout.
To attach it there are small pilot holes on the bottom of the track sections that you can drill out. I used a #69 drill bit in a pin vise. Then I used Atlas track nails to hold it down. Again I used the same drill bit to drill a small hole in the ply so that the track nails could be fastened with a small hammer and a nail set so that the track doesn’t get damaged. It is very easy to remove the track just by putting a putty knife under the section and lifting . I only used one nail per section.
If you use Unitrack on temporary basis, say for example to put together a 6x10 oval for testing some locos on, would you need to run jumpers to each section for DCC or is connecting at one point good enough with it?
John