Does anyone else have occasional issues with the length of the hose causing derailments? If so, what do you do about it?
First question: is the coupler itself at the right height? I have a test section of track with a coupler height gage at each end. I cut the little shelf where the “hose” height is checked off one of them. That way the height of the coupler knuckle can be checked without being influenced by the “airhose” pushing it upward from the shelf. Once that height is correct, then I check the hose against the shelf on the other gage. If it is still low, Kadee sells a tool for adjusting the hose. Or you can use a pair of appropriate pliers.
Maxman is right on.
If your coupler height is correct then use the Kadee coupler tool to bend the air hose up to clear the Kadee Coupler gauge. Having both tools is a model railroaders absolute necessity.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
About one out of every ten Kadee couplers I install has the uncoupling pin (brake hose) too low when the knuckle is at the correct height. It is an easy adjustment as derscribed above.
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I set all my uncoupling pins 0.020" to 0.040" above the rails using a simple “Go/No-Go” gauge I made by gluing two pieces of 0.020" styrene sheet together. I trimmed th tounge off of the bottom of my Kadee height gauge so I could easily set knuckle height first with the Kadee gauge and trip pi height second with my gauge.
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-Kevin
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Only time my gladhands hit the rail in turnouts is when the coupler is too low. I never had a new fresh-out-of-the-box Kadee with a gladhand too low when the coupler height is right. I sometimes eyeball all the couplers as a train goes by, the ones that don’t match in height are easy to see.
Here is a picture of my homemade trip pin Go/No-Go gauge:
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It works perfectly. Uncoupler operation is very dependent on accurate trip pin height.
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-Kevin
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