As I made the first transition to the second module I missed a slight dip in track level followed by a slight rise. Either one by itself would not have been a problem but together they resulted in a uncoupling of the train. While to say this was on flat ground if I had truly laid flat track flat this would not have happened. But you live and learn, at the transition between modules I will have to pay more attention to my track laying.
Very true. I spent today fiddling with a single joint in my track work. I don’t want to be able to even see any effect on the rolling stock. Time spent doing it right is time saved later when not having to debug the mess.
Magnus
Question…do you have insert track or butt joints? On our Free-mo modules we have a 1 inch setback, use 2 inch pieces of rail with joiners both ends. What this does for you is cuts the error in half by spreading it over two joints. We use code 83 for main lines and instead of cutting grooves in the ties for the joiners I just use code 70 ties on the ends and keep the ballast flush or below the ties. We have also seen butt joints come to grief in transit, ripping rail off the ties. Enjoy, jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
While I say modular, my layout is semi-permanent. But the benchwork is modular in it’s construction. You see I rent and do not want to rip the layout up and throw it in the trash when I move again. I wanted to be able to cut the track at the joints and move each module. My layout is a around the room shelve consisting of five modules. The added benefit of modular construction is that when I decide to rebuild or change a section of my layout. I can do so without ripping out the module I wish to rebuild or replace.
What you could do to protect the ends of the rail when you have to move is to screw a piece of wood across the end of the module, projecting above the track. But, I think you’d have a hard time re-joining those rail ends and making a good transition that won’t cause problems with the wheels going over them. I too have a modular layout (I think it’s also referred to as “dominos” or a sectional layout) and, like John, I use short pieces of track across the joints. Mine are 4" long. Even if I can’t get those pieces out easily to move the layout and have to cut them, I can always get more 4" pieces and they’ll fit right in. When I joined the sections together, I put a carpenter’s level across the joint and like John said, any little difference is spread across two joints 4" apart.
For good performance on modular sections you can’t use the old framing carpenter’s axiom, “Cut to suit and hammer to fit.” You gotta be a bit more persnickety. Life is a whole lot easier if the framework is of the same dimensions, is square and perpendicular at the joining face, with same thickness plywood subroadbed applied to the top. Perpendicular joining faces of the two modules in question is the most critical consideration.
Before laying track, lay a long non-flexing metal straight edge across the top to make sure it is level and even. Joint the two modules together with what ever method you choose (screws, clamps, nails, etc.) then lay the track. This should avoid any elevation changes to cause headaches later on. If you use a roadbed material such as cork, then be sure you sand it level and even across the joint between modules before laying track.
If your modules are meant to come apart and be rejoined more than once, then I would drill a few holes through the abutting framework of the modules large enough to accept a dowel, gluing the dowel into one and letting it fit snuggly into its neighbor. That way you will have perfect alightment of the railheads upon rejoining the modules. The only thing you need worry about then is any vertical kinks introduces because the far ends of the modules are not on the same plane, i.e., one end is higher than the other. That’s easy to take care of on a portable module with adjustable feet all the way around.
And, as an extra measure of making your modules bullet proof, use the 3" to 4" bridge track across the module joints as explained by the other folks who have responded to your query.
Tongue and groove at the joints.
I would have never thought of that.[bday]
Something related to this thread to consider would be intentionally allowing a sag in the bowl tracks of a yard, maybe only 1/16" or so that would prevent runaway cars from rolling out onto the ladder and fouling work in progress on the drill. jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
Door hinges are something to consider when joining modular sections.
A belt sander will match table heigth quick-quick if your carpentry isn’t dead on.