We have ONE kink in a curve (60" radius) that needs to go away. Tried to use the ARMSTRONG method, you know push with your fingers, no good.
Now I have a KINK in back trying to get to the KINK in the track.
Any ideas?
File?
Dremel tool?
Rip it out?
Thanks folks
Take Care
George P
“Trying NOT to get KINKY”
I would try the dremel… May relieve things just enough to cure the kink… Can’t help with the one in your back though…
Jeff
Agreed - the kerf width of a cutoff wheel in the Dremel will probably be enough to relieve the kink. You’d be amazed at how little ‘extra’ it takes to make a noticeable kink.
Whatever you do, definitely fix it, even if you can shove everything you own over it without derailment, because if you don’t fix it, it WILL come back to bite you.
–Randy
10-4 Tried a 4-8-4 Northern (junker engine) and the kink was VERY noticable when the 8 hit. 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 not that bad. WILL fix. I do not need a 4-8-8-4 hitting the floor!
Welcome Back Randy.
Take Care
George P.
Can you describe it a bit more? Is it horizontal, vertical? Is it a pressure ridge (why is it there, do you think?)?
If it is related to pressure, I’d relieve the pressure…cut a gap elsewhere, but nearby. If it is a joint kink, filing by hand, for me, is the only way to go…more control.
[%-)]
It is the ONLY ^#((@*^$( PLACE where 2 rail joiner are parrellel in a curve. The motion is right to left on the drivers.
I would have just SPIKED it straight in the old days but using latex caulk it is not that easy. BOTH joiner are soldered.
I am no building all by curves 100% THEN installing them. Tried just the 2 section deal and this where I GOOFED.
Then, what I would do as a trial first, is to tack down the first third of the curve well on each side of it to ensure immobility, and then put about 6-8 lb pressure on the outside of the join, parallel to the table surface, but 90 deg to the rail axis and try to unkink that join.
You’d have to weight the tacked area, too, with heavy magazines, to keep it from springing. Then, use your thumbs and push down the radius towards the centre of the curve at the kinked spot and try to flatten it (I take it that it is too sharp…kinked outward?)
From there, you can smooth it with a jeweller’s file.
Don’t know if that methods appeals to you, but it is where I’d go. [:D]
Good suggestions, but I found with a couple of my goofs, the best way was to rip up a few feet of track and get it right. It takes a couple hours, but fixing a kink can take a couple of years, before you finaly rip it out.
I’m sure you’re right. It would be my next choice after the method I spoke of earlier. As you know, we’d find out in a jiffy if we were up against a major challenge once we had tried to unkink using my method and found no benefit.
I ripped up the area, EASY since I used caulk, unsoldered the joints, reset and LOOK, NO KINKS. Ran the 4-8-8-4 over as a tes (HAD a bedshet under just in case) no problem. Now If I can just get the FROGS happy I am all set!!!
Thanks all of you.
See my reply in your other thread.
Did, thank you.