Being an older guy with not to good of close up vision, what do I need in forms of tools & jigs & glue & ??? to assemble a HO kit.
Ron
x-acto knife with new blades
glue of various types depending on what the kit is made of
a small square is very handy
files , sandpaper
some people use a special cutter for removing parts from sprues
paint , brushes , airbrush and compressor
weathering powders (chalk or bragdon etc)
dull-coat spray finish
patience [:D]
oh yeah… the instructions
Instructions ??? Whatever for ??? Instructions (and maps) are for wusses ! [swg]
On a more serious note… I suggest, Ron, that you also get a hands-free magnifying glass (those head-mounted types are good) so that you can see the smaller parts and still have your hands free to work with them. Speaking of small parts, a set of different types of small tweezers can be a god-send for those of us with a bad case of sausage-fingers. Adequate lighting is also a must. Don’t forget to work in a well ventilated area as fumes from the glues, paints, etc, can be noxious.
Optivsor brand are the best. They cost more, but they are worth it.
Enjoy
Paul
Don’t forget a son / nephew / grandson to help and get them hooked.
Brad
Paul:
Regarding your recc. for the Optivisor: what power (X) do you reccomend for doing most work–I thing a lot of the magnifying visors come in assorted power ranges.
Thanks,
Jim
you may want to get a desk top light with magnifier in the center,these help to bring extra light right up to work
I’m older too, and need my reading glasses for any kind of work on the layout. I use an Optivisor quite a bit. I need lots of light. I have a couple of 26 watt (100 watt equivalent) compact flourescent bulbs in clip-on reflectors that I use when working on the layout in addition to the room light and another one at my workbench to supplement the flourescent fixture over the bench. Lots of light.
I’ve got a 2.5X Optivisor, but then I work in N scale and sure need it for things like painting figures. Be aware though that the focal length on those things is very short. You need to get quite close to get it in focus and you don’t have much back and forth space to keep it in focus. I wear my Optivisor like upside-down bifocals. If I tip my head back, I can look under it for normal vision, which I need to pick up tools, etc.
They’re great, but spend the extra money for one with metal arms. I went through two with plastic arms rather quickly. They snap off at the base if you use them with the arm almost horizontal a lot.
How about a granddaughter? My eldest got interested in helping me with my model RR when she was about 4 or 5. She’s almost 13 now and still likes to help. She has a real talent for scenery and loves assembling and painting structures. She can also paint N scale figures-----without an Optivisor!
Jim,
I personally, like the 2.5 power. But it also depends on how close to the work you like to be. The 2.5 works at 8 inches which is a little closer than I like, but I don’t use it constantly - only for some operations. The Optivisor lens can be changed if you buy extra lens, but I haven’t found that to be neccessary. I have a 5 power jewelers loupe for the occasional time I need more power. Some stores have display models that you can try out.
Enjoy
Paul
quote “what do I need …to assemble a HO kit?”
It might make a difference whether it is a structure kit, a car kit or a steam locomotive kit.
I bought one of those flourescent lamps with the built-in magnifying lenses. I also bought some of the Right Clamps. They’re great for keeping those corners square. The glues, knives, etc. have pretty much been covered.
Styrene - liquid cement not the tube stuff (It’s too thick)
Acetal plastic/wood - cyanoacrylate