I have an IHC model of CNR’s U-1-f No. 6060 built by IHC for one of President’s Choice annual train sets. I have had it for a few years now but I have just recently figured out how un realistic the model is. The only way to make the model look more realistic is to cut an inch off of the tender, remove various detail parts on the locomotive, and relocate the first steam dome on the boiller. I have kitbashed many smaller peices including my most recent addition, a CNR caboose No. 78185 where I had to replace (but not relocate) the cupolla and add / board up windows. This would be my most difficult project yet and would like some tips to help me go about a few of these difficulties. I basically need to do a lot of cutting and filling when it comes to the boiller, but I am not so sure about how to go about boarding up a hole that is on a curved surface. If someone could also give me a list of sugested tools / materials for the project that would help me out a lot too.
This is the stock locomotive. the prototype has only one dome (combined steam and sand) almost an actual inch back form where it is located now. The extension of the cab roof also has to go in order to make the all weather cab.
This is the tender that, too, needs a lot of cutting and re-locating. I need to remove 7/16ths of an inch from the front of the tender, relocate the first set of trucks, and cut off 5/8ths of an inch from the center (between the coal bunker and the last set of trucks).
Thanks a lot!
Ghonz
PS: Sorry about the photo’s, i messed them up while re-sizing them and now
Ghonz,
I’ve kitbashed a couple of the IHC Mountains (not the Betty though), and they’re a great way to get your feet wet with steam kitbashing.
For as bad as that model you’ve got is (it’s really NOT 6060), it’s not a bad starting point for a conversion. The drive train is “good enough”: you’re not about to change the drivers and lead truck, so leave them as-is and move ahead.
For the Delta trailing truck, you’ve got several choices. Precosopn Scale and PIA make brass ones, and you could call BLI and ask if they’ll sell you a spare off their Santa Fe 2-10-2.
The tender will require a bit more work than you think. Not only will you have to shorten it, but you’ll have to cut back and slope the lower coal bunker sides inward. As they are right now, they’re just a big box and completely unrealistic. You’ll also need to add the other detailing, like the side ladders, end ladder, toolbox and auxiliary water pump (on the engineer’s side).
As for the boiler itself, strip it and start over. Leave the boiler bands and nothing else. Fill in any small holes with putty, and large holes with sheet styrene and putty. Thankfully, there’s not a whole lot to add to a stripped boiler. From the stack back, you’ll need to find:
- Stack (Pre Scale?)
- Worthington feedwater heater piping (Pre Scale)
- Top mount check valve (Cal-Scale)
- Dome (scratch, or try using two Bowser IC domes glued together and reshaped)
- Bell (Cal-Scale)
- Generator & stand (Cal-Scale & scratch)
- Turret cover (again, scratch or 'bash)
- Injector controls (Cal-Scale)
- All-weather cab (Pre Scale or Greenway Products)
Below the running boards, the detailing is up to you. If you want to move the air tanks to their proper places, do it. Likewise on changing the power reverse and stoker motors to their proper types. Finally, adding the feedwater heater strainer/pump assembly (low slung over the left side drivers) is a bit
orsonroy,
WOW thanks so much for the great tips. I just have a few other questions. First, what companies manufacture this putty and are their different types? I had to board up a few windows on my caboose, but i just inserted flat styrene scored to match the original contour so filling in the holes with putty is pretty new to me. And How should I go about removing the details on the boiler? What no. blade should I use? I have never needed to cut something so large off of a model before. All of the detail parts on past models have ‘popped’ off, however, I tried to see if their was any way to pop off the domes, but it looks like they are molded in place.
Thanks a lot for your help. I don’t plan on making the model “perfectly” similar, so I think i will leave the re-shaping of the tender for a later time. I also agree with the paint… it’s, what I like to call, “puke” green. [;)]
Ghonz
Any time, Ghonz: always glad to help another steam modeler!
The putty I’m referring to is a hobby-type body filler, sort of like Bondo for plastics. The two most common on the market are Testor’s and Squadron’s “green putty”. Both work well, but do require a little of a learning curve. Practice on some scrap plastic before you start working on a “real” model. Essentially, you squeeze some out onto a pallette (I use old water bottle caps), add the putty to the model with a toothpick, shape it mostly smooth and level, and then sand it do it’s final shape when dry (overnight).
As for blades to cut off cast-on details: it all depends. I use a #11 blade a LOT, for general carving, scraping areas smooth, and for “refreshing” sharp demarcation lines. I also use a #17 chisel blade to remove most cast-on piping and small unwanted details.
To cut off the domes, jst stat scoring a cut line with a #11 blade. Don’t try to cut through a lot of material all at once; the blade has a tendency to break free on you, which can cause damage. A #11 blade IS a scalpel, after all! Once the domes are off, roll a piece of .015 styrene, to match the inside contour of the boiler. Glue it in place (liquid plastic cement), and glue another piece of styrene into the space the dome used to be in. Add putty to any gaps, and sand the area smoth (it might take a couple of applications of putty, as it tends to shrink a little).
And remember to have fun! Redetailing steam seems like a LOT of work, and it is. But it’s also much more rewarding than “superdetailing” a diesel, which is just a boring box, after all. Steam has CHARACTER, and it’s very rewarding to crank out a nicely detailed steamer on your own (even if it’s not 100% prototypically correct). I’m working on engine #3 right now, and have another three planned for this year not having a layout at the moment gives me a lot of time to work on upgrading my roster!)
Adding to what orsonroy says, you might want to consider getting the Spectrum Southern Pacific semi-Vanderbilt tender (Bachmann calls it a “Hicken” http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bac/bac89912.htm?source=froogle ). You can get a lot closer to the CN tender without as much work.
Andre
Unless you’re really set on having a U-1-f, your loco is more suited for conversion to a U-1-b. The U-1-bs, 6016 - 6036, had spoked drivers and separate sand and steam domes. The biggest change to the loco would be the addition of an Elesco fwh, and an all-weather cab. The all-weather cab is available, as noted previously, from Precision Scale: they offer both brass and plastic versions in the same style. Cal-Scale makes the Elesco system (the U-1-f class did not have Worthington feedwater heaters, incidently. The strainer/pump that Ray refers to is an Elesco exhaust steam ejector, often called the poor-man’s feedwater heater. The U-1-bs had slab-sided coal tenders, very plain and probably an easy kitbash or scratchbuild, not, however, using the tender shown in your photo. You could use the trucks from your tender, though. Ray’s other suggestions for parts and techniques are a good guide and, as he notes, while redetailing a steam loco can be a lot of work, it’s also a lot of fun.
Here’s a CNR P-5-h that I built from a Proto2000 USRA 0-8-0. The boiler piping was completely redone (not only was it in the wrong place, but I felt the diameter of the piping to be mostly too small), and the running boards were lowered. New airtanks were made from lead-filled brass tubing and mounted quite far inboard, as on the prototype. The smokebox front got the CN treatment, with a new headlight, scratchbuilt number boards, and new handrails. This required the front end of the loco’s frame to be lengthened and I also modified the rear frame to more closely resemble prototype photos. Also, new built-up footboards on both the engine and tender, modifications to the cab roof, and new handrails and an open coal bunker on the tender. I also added enough weight to the loco to pretty well double its pulling power.
(click on images to enlarge)
My next two CNR locos will be a T-
Thanks a lot for all of the help. It’s incredible how many people are willing to help out other modelers. Well, i guess i have some shopping to do. Now i will have something to do when constructing my layout becomes to frustrating. [;)]. I do have a lot of IHC models. In my opinion, they run well enough and are close enough models to enjoy for a period of time, but eventually, when you see beautifully detailed models, it gets kind of disappointing when you look back at your own models. Very nice photos of some of your projects, Wayne. Infact, they inspiered me to work on a model of a P-5-h for the CNR from the IHC model. However, i would rather my passenger trains look their best before i start working on the switchers (i’m modeling a passenger switching layout in the fictional city of New Wilmington) Thanks a lot for the kitbashing advice, from orsonroy. Now i feel confident, to start a “real” kitbashing project. But first, i have to finish the benchwork for my New Wilmington Union Passenger Terminal.
Ghonz
Thanks for the kind words, Ghonz. You’re right about the IHC locomotives, too: nothing wrong with them the way they come and they’re a great starting point if you want to kitbash them, especially in view of their reasonable cost. Here’s an IHC Mogul that I bought when these locos were first released. It’s a decent runner, and I’ve modified it only slightly, to give it a bit of a family look with a Mogul that I already owned.
(click on images to enlarge)
Here’s the older Mogul, a brass import from PFM. I removed some of the more distinctive Boston & Maine details and added the brass sunshades to disguise the arched window-tops. A few details specific to my freelanced Grand Valley were added, and the loco was remotored and regeared. She’s an extremely smooth runner, and these two locos run well together, doubleheading in their usual service on mixed locals.
Wayne
once again, beautifull work Wayne. I also cannot get over your water. Please tell me it actually is water and not some sort of material like Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. It is spectacular!
Ghonz
Once again, thanks, Ghonz. Actually, the water is patching plaster applied over a plywood riverbed. I used a product from Canada Gypsum called Durabond 90. It has a catalyst in it that makes it harden in about 90 minutes, regardless of how thin or thick the mixture is, although a very watery mixture doesn’t seem to set as hard. It also resists cracking, even when spread fairly thinly over plywood. I mist a little water, with a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent added, over the plywood before spreading the plaster: this prevents the wood from removing too much moisture from the wet plaster. Durabond also comes in faster setting times: the number following the name is the setting time in minutes. The “water” in the photo was worked with a drywall knife, both to suggest currents and to achieve the swirling effect around the bridge piers. After it had set, I left it for a couple of days, to harden completely. Then, using a 2" or 3" brush, I applied latex house paint: the brown is the same colour that I use as a base colour on all of my scenery, while the dark green is that which I use for background trees. I applied both colours at the same time, so that they blended together somewhat wherever they touched. After that paint had dried, I used some white latex primer and a small brush to apply a bit of “white water” where appropriate. After all of the paint had thoroughly dried, I gave the “water” three coats of water-based, high gloss urethane.
This is very easy to do, so give it a try. These three scenes were my first attempts.
Wayne
Great work and i certainly hope i could get similar results, however, my layout doesn’t have room for such a nice river model, so i’ll have to practice on a diorama.
Ghonz