There’s not a day that goes when there is not a Postwar F-3 for sale. I am F-3 collector and have had great success purchasing these beauties through Ebay and some of the larger online toy train auctions. Lately I have found several f-3’s for sale where the cabs are mismatched to the power frame, i.e. a 2343 cab on an early SF 2333 frame, with the early motors (exposed brush plates), and not equipped with magna-traction; a 2345 Western Pacific also on an early SF 2333 power frame; and last but not least a 2242 New Haven on a dual motor 2243-38 frame. Lionel produced this as a single motor F-3. These mistakes are being made from the guy with an Ebay score of 10 all the way up to the most respected auction houses. In most cases these are innocent mistakes. In the case of the auction houses, inexperienced staffers are probably the culprits. Bottom line make sure you know what’s under the hood before you part with the cash.
I don’t understand your comment about the 2242 on a 2243 frame. Both of these were single-motor locomotives and I believe used the same 2243-38 frame. Do you mean that the frame was modified to accept two motors?
The November issue of CTT had a suggestion (page 61, suggestion #19) to use different shells on an F-3 chasis to save money. The article mentioned re-painted shells, but it will make finding authentic F-3s a little harder in the future.
I think I see what’s going on. Lionel used the same casting, with the 2243-83 number cast into it, both for single-motor locomotives and later, milled out, for twin-motor locomotives. I verified that my 2383 has that number.
I noticed that they don’t give any part numbers in the service manual for the “not sold” frames. I’ll bet they had different internal designations for the two versions.
Thanks Bob for the follow up. I posted this thread because to many people are paying top dollar for these F-3’s, especially on Ebay, without knowing what there buying. I’ve even seen a Postwar 2373, on an MPC power frame, sell for over a $1000.00. My advice to buyer’s…If detailed photo’s are not provided, request them. If the buyer does not respond…need I say more? Don’t let a rookie or a basement bandit profit at your expense.
It isn’t happening on just ebay. Train meet dealers and train stores peddle the same junk. Major train meets such as York are probably the best enviroment for buying big ticket items because you can inspect them up close and personal. Additionally, show promoters at York will shut down tables with mis-mismatched junk that isn’t marked that it’s mismatched. With ebay, it’s best to be patient and cultivate a handful of dealers who prove to be experienced and are telling you exactly what you are getting through nickle and dime dealings.
Good advice, and it doesn’t end with just F3s. I follow the major auction sites on a fairly regular basis, and some of the overly generous descriptions are unbelievable! Just looking at the pictures posted, one can tell that the items are vastly over-rated. Terms like mint and like-new have become commonplace for, in my estimation, absolute junk. I guess the only way to not get burned is to verify the seller’s return policy and make sure they have a really good reputation via feedback or contacting people who have already dealt with the sellers. Be extremely wary of terms like “estate sale”, “selling for a friend or relative”, “no way to test this item”, or my favorite peeve, “I know nothing about trains” (yeah, you know nothing about trains, except that they command big bucks for almost anything with the name Lionel on it).
OK, I’m done ranting and raving, I’ll climb down from my soap-box.