I’m thinking of purchasing a Kreg pocket hole jig for my workshop. It’s been mentioned many times here as a good tool for building benchwork. Those who have used it… which system would you recommend for benchwork: Rocket, K3 Standard, Propack? And which screws (I imagine course thread) washer-head or pan-head? Thanks for the guidance.
pocket hole jigs usually come with their own screws. They seem to all be alike except for the length. I have built several layouts and never considered pocket hole fasteners before. They are primarily used fo conceal the heads in furniture construction. Since the underside of a layout is out of sight anyway, the conventional methods are far easier and less expensive than pocket screws.
BB
I have the rocket and have built a lot of furniture with it as well as my layout. It is wonderful. I use square headed pan screws designed for the Kreig. Be sure that the bit matched the screws, flat bottomed or tapered. Puttong a tapered screw in a flat bottomed hole can spit the wood.
Pocket screws allowed me to build L girder style upside down and srew the joists in from the top. I used 2x4 legs with 2x4 stretches pocket screwed to the legs. I then used L girders upside down screwed to the stretches from the top. I then fastened the risers in the normal way. I spent a lot less time under the layout.
The pocket screws also lined things up nicely. I agree that they are not necesay, and thousands of great benches have been built without them. I had the Kreig and had learned to use it, and it was very nice. I also use the screws for all exposed applications for they look pretty when exposed.
Jack,
I use the K3 jig in the construction of my benchwork. My reason for using pocket hole construction is the strength of that type of joint is much stronger than screwing into end grain of crossmembers from the outside of the benchwork.
If you are using softwood, (pine) you will want to use the coarse thread screws. Use the 1 1/4" length screws if using 3/4" thick stock. Use the fine thread screws for joining hardwood (Maple, poplar, walnut).
Let me know if you have any more questions. Here’s a picture of some of my benchwork.
Don Z.
Art/ Don, Thanks for the info. Do you use pan head or washer head screws (or does it matter for an application like this?)
Jack,
The jig I purchased is actually the K2 jig. I had to go out into my woodshop to double check after posting my previous answer. I use only the washer head screws. The washer head screws do have a pan head(ie. rounded, not a countersunk head) and utilize a #2 square drive bit to turn the screws.
Don Z.
The screws I use are “Quikscrews” , are self tapping, have a square top and bottom with a square drive. They are also wonderful for decorative work. I got them from Westlund, a mailorder cabinat hardware place in Minnesota. Their prices are fabulus. Don’s pic really shows off some of the things that can be done with the pocket jig.
OK. That helps a lot. I know Bruce is right: I could build it without the pocket jig method, but I’d like to own the tool, and it seems like a neat way to do it. Appreciate the advice!
Being a former trim carpenter and curent cabinet/furniture maker, I flat love the Kreg system…well, the idea any way.
Coming through wit a standard screw, you necessarily can’t see how your pieces mate up. When using pocket holes you can. The clamp system, if intelligently applied, goes a long way towards achieving perfect alignment.
They hold better than standard screws in many situations. I’ve never used the fine thread screws, not for oak, not for mahogany, not for pine, poplar, I have no troubles with splitting, so why deliberately use a weaker fastener?
Which model to buy? Well, I have most of them, the unpowered ones anyway, I just bought a full kit. But who needs an official Kreg template? Many a time I just made my own, all you need is basic woodworking tools. Yes, the official unit is faster, and easier to use, but really, all you need are the screws. The point here is not to convince you to build your own, it is to let you know that it really doesn’t matter which unit you buy, they all work pretty doggone good. Decide which one fits your budget best and use it. If for any reason it doesn’t fill all your needs, go back and get a different one. You can’t have too many.
Thanks all. I ordered my K3 set today along with some screws… can’t wait to get stated with it!
Sounds intresting guys…What is it?,where can you buy it?,is there a site where one can get more information?,which is the best?what is the approximate cost?..Thanks.
Mike,
To learn more about the tool and its use, go to http://www.kregtool.com/. To purchase the tool, go to www.rockler.com or www.amazon.com. If you have more questions, let me know.
Don Z.
Jeffers is half right, you also need the step drill, and the proper one for the screws used, flat or tapered. I think the flat based work much better in pulling things tight without spitting.
There is also a cheaper version made by Vermont American avaolable at Home Depot (and I would assume others) that is much cheaper and suitable for occasional use. Just like everything else it is not exactly the same quality and function as the original but it is servicable for occasional use.
Now you tell me! [:D] By the way, if anyone wanted to look at one, Lowes has one or two Kreg models (and screws) in stock.
My friend has a Kreg and yes it is great. I have a pocket hole maker that is 200 dollars cheaper and it works just as well. You can get it at home depot and it is just a simple thing.
I hope that helps.
Art, the step drill does hold a lot better, but for screwed and glued joints, a block of wood and two standard high speed bits make a jig that place a screw that will hold till the glue sets up.
Fsm1000, the full Kreg kit, including bit, clamps, screws, accessories and three different pocket hole jigs goes for $130 here, at Rockler, and you can get the Rocket alone for around $35. Was $200 in your post a typo, intended to be $20?
jeffers_mz nope no typo, they go on sale here for about 200 [two hyndred] however with the exchange rate on the dollar changing they might be cheaper now but about 6 months ago they were about 179 on a super sale, the cheapest I ever seen them and they all went in one day.
The cheapo one I got though was 20 [twenty].
I live in Canada.
A few months ago 200 here would have been about 140 in the states when our dollar was worth 70 cents.
Jack, you won’t be sorry. Here is what I got after working for a couple of hours in Don Z’s “shop” a few months ago. I used pine, so coarse thread pocket hole screws were used. Absolutely no problems and solid.
Tom, beautiful work! (I see Don Z’s influence there [^] ). I am doing around the walls and am planning for my dimensional lumber to be designed very similarly to what you’re showing in the bottom picture. I am really jazzed about learning this new tool, and especially like how it will work for securing cross members into the board on the wall. Thanks for the pictures.