Kristal Klear

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

First, I understand that nothing designed to travel totally withstands damage. I have a grain elevator that I scratchbuilt including modifying the varios windows elevator tower. They will be modeled in various states of open or closed. I was thinking of using MicroScales Kristal Klear and not sure how well it will hold up during transport to shows and such. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks

Ricky

2

There are several guys on Youtube using it instead of Dullcote while weathering cars. I’ve tried it a couple of times and for $3.00 can - 11 oz at that - I’ll keep using it.

This guy shows in use here but be warned it has STRONG LANGUAGE in the background song so mute the computer if you don’t want to hear it. there is no instructions so you won’t miss anything.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpCQu12g0ko

ratled

3

If Kristal Klear was used in that video, it wasn’t shown anywhere. Are we talking the same product? The OP was asking about using Kristal Klear as an adhesive…

4

Actually, I was asking about using it as window glazing, sorry that wasn’t clear (no pun intended) in the original post.

Ricky

5

Sorry about that. The spray product in the video is Crystal Clear… just a different spelling.

ratled

6

I’ve used it for years without a problem, most of my stuff spent almost 10 yrs being moved from place to place before i had new layout space. Most of my KK windows survived without a problem, but beware of moisture.

7

after the stuff cures, you can brush coat it with clear gloss laquer to seal it, none of the windows that I’ve made have ever gone cloudy or fallen out.

8

The way it works is you brush it across the window opening to form a membrane. When it dries, it’s a little flexible. If it’s too thin, you can go back over it with another coat. It’s very durable.

I’ve used it to glaze the windows in N scale autos, as well as structures and rolling stock (Life Like cabooses), and also to fill in headlight lenses around grain of rice bulbs. On close inspection, it looks a little blurry, but it does put “glass” where you need it.

Actually, I use Gloss Mod Podge, which comes in a pint jar for about $6 at Walmart or Michael’s. It’s the same stuff, and you can use it to finish your rivers and streams, too…

Lee

9

Ricky - A far better, yet similar, product that I swear by for creating durable window “glass” in models is Formula ‘560’ Canopy Glue. It’s widely used in the model aircraft hobby and should be available in most larger hobbyshops that cater to the aircraft hobby. And…not only is is great for creating clear windows, it’s also the best all-purpose modeling glue I’ve ever come across and which I employ in gluing up all my wooden scratchbuilt models!

CNJ831

10

Thanks for the replies all. I will be making a visit to the hobby shop this weekend. Not sure if I will go with the Kristal Klear or the 560 Canopy Glue, probably depends what’s in stock!

Hopefully pics of the elevator in WPF in the near future.

Ricky

11

I’ve never used it for window glazing but did read an interesting post here the other night where a poster used real glass from ngineering. When I first read t I thought ok this guy’s bread ain’t baked but after reading about what he did and checking it out on the website It is really is pretty neat stuff. What better to model glass with then real glass?

http://www.ngineering.com/index.htm

12

Walthers stocks it also

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=&scale=&manu=&item=&keywords=canopy+glue&words=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search

I have used Krystal Kleer both as an advesive for acetete windows and to make windows in vehicles that did not come with glazing… For gluing acetete, it does not fog the plastic like many other adhesives; you just have to use it sparingly as it will ooze out on the “glass”.

For making windows using the stuff, first make a bead of it completely around the frame, dip a toothpick into the bottle, hold it flat to the window frams and draw it across the window making a membrane. It will look milkey, but will dry clear. If the membrane pops, add some more KK to the toothpock and do it again.

I have some vehicles I did maybe 15 years ago and they still look OK. Not a good as a clear styrene casting or acetete, but for a curved car windshield it saves a lot of grief trying to get some rigid material cut and bent to fit.