Has anyone used this and if so how well did it work? [%-)]
I’m thinking of using it to make new number boards and also the round windows on a ‘F’ unit.
Has anyone used this and if so how well did it work? [%-)]
I’m thinking of using it to make new number boards and also the round windows on a ‘F’ unit.
It won’t work very well for the number boards. For the windows, it depends upon what you will accept. When it dries, it sinks into a concave shape meaning the number board will look recessed. On porthole windows this may not be too bad. One thing about it is that if you don’t like the effect, it can be removed. It appears to be something like white glue, but dries clearer.
Bob Boudreau
Canada
I like Krystal Klear for gluing clear styrene windows in locomotives and passenger cars. If you use regular cement (Testors, CCA, etc.) and get a drop or a smean where it’s visible, that drop or smear is there to stay. That same drop or smear of Krystal Klear is much less visible.
Good to hear from you again Bob B! You are right, any unacceptable window can be removed easilly and redone some other way. KK is not good for anything as large as a loco cab window, it dries too thickly at the frame. (The concave effect Bob mentioned. Since this is a meniscus problem, I wonder if thinning the KK with a detergent might reduce the meniscus? Not too thin, or it won’t bridge, I would think. Drying time would be longer too.
I like the idea of using it as a glue for some other form of glazing.
John Wood, Nova Scotia, Canada.
If it dries concave what about adding layers after each one is dry, in other words building it up until it is level?
Anyone try this yet?
jar: I think that it would be quite difficult to get the additional layers to stay in the middle and not flow to the edges. I think you would continue to have the meniscus at the edges building up with each layer. The center would be stronger and thicker, but the edges would be thicker still.
Haven’t tried it. Be our guest! [:D]
try letting it dry with the outside surface downwards so that gravity pulls it into shape.
It should do an acceptable job just filling the front of the numberboard.
David: I don’t think the KK sags under gravity, but climbs the sides of whatever container (in this case a window frame or number board box) it’s put in. Defies gravity in fact! In that respect it’s like water in a glass, it clings to the sides and creeps up.