I know U is common, but wheres the common on CD? It says 14 volts, but how to you hook up accessories that need to share a common?
Also, If I want 20v constant, the back says to hook up D and U. Can I hook up DU for the 022s while still using the variable voltage from BU for trains? Is it OK to plug in D to the side of the 022s… do the outside rails still provide a common when the switch is powered by constant voltage?
You cannot operate shared common accessories using the C - D posts at 14V. The C post is fixed at 6V above the common, (U), reference and the D post is fixed at 20 V above common. The 14 V appears between C & D and can be used for lights or other accessories not referenced to track common, (U). You can however, obtain 20V constant from DU and still operate variable voltage from AU or BU. Be warned that the 20V constant voltage can drive bulbs hard enough to melt repro parts on the o22’s and shorten bulb life. A higher voltage rated bulb can be used if one exists in the lamp size. Its been a while since I used o22’s but I remember these situations. Hope this helps!
Thats exactly what I was looking for. I do think its odd that lionel made these transformers with a non common terminal. Doesnt matter though. I am going to phase the transformers and run the 022s and a yard off of the KW.
Use an 18 or 24 volt bulb in the 022 switch lens housing, can buy 18 or 24 volt bulbs at Radio Shack in clear only. Lionel sells 18 volt bulbs in green or red or clear, may cost more than Radio Shack, and can be bought at your local hobby shop.
Speaking of 022 switches do you know where I can get a solenoid repaired or buy a rebuilt solenoid with the switch throw in it? I have a friend who has two 022 switches that the solenoids quit working, I tested the solenoids separately from the switch, had the bakelite cover off and put 18 volts to the constant voltage plug area with a jumper wire and another jumper to the center post on the switch terminals lamp lighted but nothing else happened and jumped the outside terminals to the center post and nothing happened, to be sure it was the solenoid before saying it needed replacing.
Check the contacts on the piece with the pin that moves the swivel rail. If the contacts are dirty or bent, one or both of the coils may not function. That is probably the source of the problem
I have pulled the switch apart with the bakelight covers totally off of it and I am bench testing the solenoid, have it jumped off with an alligotor clip to the constant voltage post & another alligator clip to the center terminal on the solenoid housing, in plain English I have bypassed the switch contacts as it is fully opened up! The light bulb lights up but nothing else happens even when I jump off the two outer terminals one at a time from the center terminal.
The lack of flexibility in the KW’s fixed voltage is one of the reasons why I never had very much fondness for mine.
Back when I was powering my layout with a KW, I had an American Flyer 8B 100 watt transformer also connected. I ran all of my O22 switches off of the variable output of this transformer, so I could set it any place I needed to.
Any small transformer would work fine for this-I use the American Flyer transformer because it conveniently also gave me the correct voltage for my talking station.
I’ve also used the second variable handle on the KW to power switches, however this isn’t the best option since it will often move with the other handle. I typically ran the trains off of the “B” handle, since it had less resistance than the “A” handle.
Of course, if you’re trying to run two trains off of it, doing this won’t help either.
Truthfully, I never was all that fond of my KW. I sold mine just as soon as I got my ZW, and never looked back.
Lee,
I have a spare O22 solenoid that I think works, although I won’t swear to it. It needs to have two of the binding posts reattached, and it will need a rivet press to attach it onto the O22 motor base.
If you want it, though, send me your snail mail address and it’s all yours.
Well, not really… this is not as direct a connection as it would seem. You must check the slide contacts - points & pads - on the solenoid/switch motor base. The circuits to the solenoid pass through them even the way you have them powered up.