What’s a “pocket hole drill”? I’m trying to imagine you drilling a hole the long way down through a 1x3 crossmember, but I’m sure that’s not what you mean, ARTHILL.
Jim
Is that a FOSNER BIT (spelling)?
Do not overlook going to a lumber yard for your lumber. I have found the prices to be competitive and the quality to be much better than the big home improvement stores. Also, the selection of lumber grades is often better.
I have used plywood to make l-girders for table legs for a project table. I cut the boards to size on my table saw and fabricated the pieces. Very strong; very stable.
Use glue as well as screws. The time and efforst pays big, big dividends.
I used 1x4’s and 1x2’s to make my L-Girders, too, following all the steps in Linn Westcott’s book. The resulting platform is incredibly strong, and doesn’t move, particularly if you brace the legs the way he suggests.
RE: glue and screws. I matched a 1x4 with a 1x2 and then clamped them together. Next, I drilled pilot holes for screws about every 12-16 inches. I unclamped the wood, glued the flange (1x2) to the web (1x4) and then inserted the screws into the pilot holes. The screws then act as clamps while the glue sets. When the glue dries, remove the screws. There will be nothing to get in the way of your joists or risers. If you need to fill the holes (unlikely), you can use plastic wood.
If you work with standard length lumber (8 or 10 feet), you can then cut your girders directly with a miter or table saw.
Hope this info helps. Good luck.
I found a good source for risers on my open-grid layout. Most lumber stores have a pile of pallets that they throw away, or stack up with a “FREE PALLETS” sign over it. I just run them over my table saw and use the slats. If you can get the nails out, the 2x4s that most runners are made of make good leg braces. If I could figure how to do it without stinking up the house, I’d recycle my sawdust back into boards. [:)]