L Shape N-Scale Layout Questions

I’ve made layouts in the past but want to be more aggressive with the scenery. I have never used foam before. What works best to cut out rivers or grade climbs? I will eventually post a layout template after I tweak it to the final draft. It will run unit trains on a double track mainline. I figured a triple line would be too busy. I also have 2 yards planned and a double track inner line for the Metra commuter trains. The inner line runs in a L shape with bumper ends but have access to the main line through 2 different areas. So I do want the metra line to run under ground like Chicago’s union station does. any suggestions on type and height I should use?

Welcome to the forums.

I would recommend using 2" foam, makes it easier to have below grade scenery and still some underneath the cut. If you want to go deeper, you can attach blocks of foam underneath the main surface. I use inexpensive latex caulk as an adhesive. Don’t throw any pieces away, small pieces can be shaped and covered for loads like coal and gravel. cut to shapes like large boxes and smaller pieces can be made into piles of whatever you want to cover them with, coal, dirt, you name it.

For general cutting of foam, I like to use a retractable utility knife and use the cut and snap method. When it comes to shaping, then a variety of cutters comes in handy. The one tool that helps the most when cutting foam is a shop vac to clean up mess. The utility knife doesn’t produce a lot of mess, but most other methods do. Many like a knife like a steak or bread knife. There are hot knives or hot wire cutters that will work, but create smoke that is probably toxic, so should have good ventelation. There are Surform tools that do a nice job shaping, but really create the need for the shop vac. I have one that is like a block plane, good for smoothing rolling hills and the like. One is like a long round file, probably the one I use the least, but there are spots. The one I use the most is called a “Shaver” (21-115), it is good for smothing out small depressions or riverbeds. Though it has a small working surface, I find it quite handy and it would be the first one I would recommend someone get.

Depending on the depth of the cuts you plan to make, I would start with the utility knife and cut parallel lines along where you what to take out. Cut some cress hashes then chisel out with a putty knife, then smooth out with the shaver. If you plan to pour “water” in the depression, seal it with plaster of paris, hydorcal, Sculpthmold or s

The layout I plan on building is in those links, 1 is in a 3D pic. I am using Kato unitrack, and NJ international Crossing gates, and signal bridges. I would have liked to have made a triple mainline like the BNSF Aurora to Chicago line, but money and space… I was quoted for a custom built Sears/Willis Tower N scale replica that would stand 9ft tall (Don’t know how that is 1:160 scale) for $20-30K… Not gonna happen LOL For the most part, I will more that likely use a partition type wall and have photos of the city made to fit with a small stretch. I was thinking of using plexiglass to go around the front of the layout to keep the trains from falling off the table, and thought it would look nicer. Any thoughts on that idea?

https://imageshack.com/i/nfg7a9j

https://imageshack.com/i/fvltuej

Yes, it seems that all of us would like more space for more layout, but …

As for the plexiglas safety fence. I have one, as I have some very close to the edge trackage and heavy footed grandchildren. If you go to the dark line above VIDEOS, Expert Tips and scroll down to Makig Plexiglas Safety Fence, I think you will find what you need. If you have any fruther questions, ask away. I got my local hardware store where I bought the plexiglas, to cut the long strips for me. Much easier and neater than trying to do it oneself on those long runs. I’m still trying to come up with a good corner brace, plexi seems hard to glue. I may have to go to some thick styrene for the corners. For straight connections, to keep the top aligned, a short piece from a report binder, the kind with the slip on back, should work well (get a clear one). I haven’t thought to get one yet or when I thought of it, the store didn’t have that kind. The connectors and corner brackets hold the pieces together and make them both neater and safer.

For some reason I get an error message on your links, so can’t comment on them.

Good luck,

Richard

http://imageshack.com/a/img843/4268/g7a9.jpg

hope this link works: