We recently traveled from to via and I thought I would share some thoughts of the experience. We decided to take Amtrak for various reasons, but mostly because flying has become such an ordeal and price-wise was as expensive if not more so than the train, we also decided that we had the time, and the opportunity to see the country from Pacific to the Atlantic from ground level is something everyone should experience at least once in their lives as there is no better way to grasp the vast scale and diversity of the nation. We traveled coach all the way, learned a few tips I will pass on here. Ate in the dining car on several the occasions and overall had a very positive experience save one that was specific to me. I’ll do my best to keep it short, but we are talking about 8 days total of travel experiences so please bear with me:
Stage 1: LA to
We left LA in the evening around 6pm-ish on the Southwest Chief, as we were going to , our car was last in the train, we considered a Roomette in the sleeper car but it would have doubled the trip costs, but apparently the sleeper cars were full, so someone has money to pay for it. The trip out of LA was smooth and we were soon going to our dinner reservation, overall all the food in the dining car was excellent, very tasty and good portions. That first night we split the Roast Chicken dinner and it was very good, eating on the train is a communal affair so your sitting with other folks on
At 9pm we got onboard the Lakeshore Limited, in that it was a marked difference from boarding in LA. In LA there was a desk where you checked in, had seat numbers assigned to you so when you boarded it was a very orderly affair, this was a classic Chinese Fire Drill, with people trying to outrun others to get the best seats in the remarkably unreserved “reserved” seating. Luckily most folks were going to , which breaks off in , so in the bound section it was less dramatic to get seats. We switch now from the high two deck Superliners to the single level Heritage fleet cars, which were not quite as sound proof and had tighter spaced seats than the Superliners. This evening was the toughest, namely because the coaches were at the head end behind the single bound sleeper. As such in our coach the engine’s horn was very loud, and as we were crossing northern and and a lot of grade crossings thru the rust belt at night, the horn noise was almost constant, I swear there were stretched where the horn was constantly going off for periods up to 20 minutes long! Despite my best attempts at creating my own private mental environmental deprivation chamber with my earplugs and hooded eye covering and despite the extra pillows I got my hands on, it was a hard night’s sleep. Luckily somewhere around 4am we left the rust belt and entered the relatively wide open farm b
We decided to take all the things we learned on our way out and make sure we were prepared for the return trip. This included going to TG Maxx and buying a pair of inexpensive full size pillows, a large flat NY Giants thro pillow that functioned as a seat cushion for me, and a small box of Nyquil gel tablets also for me. We also brought a selection of food stuffs and treats to try and cut down on trips to the café car, but we kept dinner in the diner on the SW Chief. The return wasn’t quite as eventful as the outbound trip. to came and went; we passed the Erie Canal at night this time awaking in the farm belt of . This time armed with the extra pillows, earplugs, hoodie and finally the chemical sandman named Nyquil I actually was able to sleep pretty well, the only caviet being again that the seats are just too darn short for someone my size and it catches up with you when you cant stretch out, but it was far better than the way in.
We passed thru the rust belt and into , I spent 5 days in lugging an umbrella that I really didn’t need, and here in I got caught in a T-storm, with my umbrella safely stored in a locker in the station, I got hosed. Oh well deep dish pizza in Giordano’s helped dry me off. Leaving and crossing the Midwest again, only real treat being a series of T-storms on the way the , we had a full car leaving
Overall aside from the sleep issues, the trip was great! I do think next time if we do a long trip and decide to go by train, I think we will try to save more and get the Roomette, although the Roomette on the Heritage cars, I could see walking thru the station that the toilet was right there in the cabin, like right NEXT to where your head is at night, eeewwww! But the folks we talked to that were in the sleepers all said it was definitely worth getting the sleeper, so more research is needed.
Some sections of track were very smooth but some stretches were very rough and the cars could really pitch you around, I’ve been on fishing boats in rough seas that were smoother, the rough sections tended to occur either in the very remote boondocks or in the urban cores of large cities where the trains passed thru yards. If you have balance issues this could be a real negative but there were a lot of older retirees on both legs of our trip.
Recommendations: Traveling by train is generally cheaper than flying if you book early, its less stressful but only if you have the time to spare. A lot of fast paced people we know couldn’t fathom why we were going by train. if your going to go by coach, BRING PILLOWS, you’ll need them. Also if you have issues with sound and sleep bring earplugs, they work. Also if your cash strapped, you can save a lot of money by bringing your own food. Of course part of the fun of traveling by train is eating in the diner but not all meals need to be eaten there or in the café. Besides the café food is little better than that you can bring along or buy at a CVS before boarding. But I would definitely try dinner
I enjoyed reading about your trip from LA to Boston and back in a coach.
It has been a long time since I rode coach class overnight in the U.S. The last time was more than 20 years ago. I was in a bit of an economy mode, so I booked a roomette on the Texas Eagle from Dallas to Chicago, but I opted for coach class on the Capitol Limited from Chicago to Washington. Big mistake! The train was crowded, and I found myself sitting next to a full figured woman who turned out to be a religious zealot. After an hour of attempted conversion therapy on her part, which did not take, I headed for the lounge car, where I camped for most of the night.
I frequently take the Eagle from Temple, Texas to Dallas or Fort Worth. As noted in a previous post, I ride coach class, and most of the people that I have met are OK. But the few bad apples really make travelling in a coach over a long distance a trial.
I always travel in Sleeping Cars in all LD trains, and Business Class on shorter trips. The only way to go is sleeping car. Great Story about your trip.[:D]
You are a good writer and reporter, and I thank you for your descriptions of your trip.
Hint: On your next trip, if you can do so without much extra fare, go via Oakland (Emeriville) and the California Zephyr at least one way. Others on this Forum will know whether you get more of the excellent Salt Lake City - Denver scenery eastbound or westbound, but a lot of the scenery, Soldier Summit between Provo and Helper, and everything east of Grand Junction, is about as wonderful scenery as exists anywhere. I can truthfully compare it to the Swiss Alps, which I have also covered pretty throgoughly.
The book “Never on Wednesday,” if you can find it, has some wonderful photos so you will know what to expect. It details the 1970-1988 Rio Grande Zephyr that was the D&RGW’s own train three times a week each direction until Amtrak rerouted its train daily off the UP main through Cehyenne and Rawlins to the D&RGW Moffat Tunnal line.
I have taken the CZ both ways between Emeryville and Denver. The scenery is great in both directions; it is amongst some of the best that I have laid eyes on. The scenery in Colorado that you describe is awesome in either direction, and the CZ is scheduled to maximize viewing of it. Also, the scenery through Donner Pass is spectacular.
I have ridden the CZ in the spring, fall, and winter. I liked the winter trip best of all. The train was not as crowded as in the spring and fall, thereby making for a better experience, and the snow scenes in the Rockies as well as through Donner Pass were something to behold.
Yikes your right, dually noted and corrected! I was helping a friend plan a trip to San Antonio so I guess I had the Limited on my mind [D)]
Sam1, Dave, I have taken the CZ to Iowa before, but that was back when the Desert Wind was still running from LA to SLC. Nice trip thru the rockies but still have to do the Sierra leg to Oakand.
I took some pics, mostly thru Raton Pass. I still need to upload them, will try to post a few here this weekend [:D]
Last week took the Southwest Chief and Capitol Limited from Kansas City to Washington (then Philadelphia) The Chief was delayed in Illinois by a freight, yet still arrived in Chicago on time to the minute, as did the Capitol. The Norfolk Southern track was a little rough until Cleveland, then very smooth from Pennsylvania on… In spite of Romney’s threat to shut Amtrak down, the employees were most pleasant and helpful… Food was above average, French toast in the morning was exceptional. This contrasts with an airline trip the previous week which involved consistantly rude stews and employees. Being charged $100 extra because of a two pound overage didn’t make my day. BTW On Southwest you get 31 peanuts in a foil bag for service.
Be aware that Northwest Regional trains are quite crowded. Count on along line for snack service.
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